The Grand Gabarit and the Escaut to Belgium (15-20 May)

So on 15th May, with only 5 days before we have to be back in England, we set off for the Grand Gabarit, and the big water ways down to Belgium.  The first day however is a gentle stroll to Estrun and the Bassin Rond.  This was a beautiful and relaxing day, and the Bassin Rond is a beautiful mooring,

 An old bridge marks the entrance to the beautiful Bassin Rond at Estrun

The Bassin itself is wide and beautiful

But on the 16^th we head out on to the big water way which goes down from Houlain, Denain through Valenciennes and then down to Condé and the border.  Although canalised the Escaut here is wide, big and busy.

Quite natural here, but not once you enter the Grand Gabarit

No photographs here, we are afraid.

These locks do however take forever.  Commercials take priority and there are plenty of them (over 30) plying heavy cargo trade between Valenciennes and Dunkerque or Calais.  The fun – or the most challenging that is - is being overtaken by “big empties”.  With no cargoes they are high in the water and can travel at speed, often significantly above the 15 kms limit.  

This creates quite big broadside waves against us, and as the river is canalised and no more than 30 metres wide, with them on our side of the channel, then we can rock quite a bit.  But having them pass while at standstill to let them have priority entry into the lock is trickiest.  There is solid wall against us, but if we touch, we won’t connect with our fenders as we are too low in the water, but higher up straight against the cabin.  So we really have to manoeuvre very carefully.  But it all goes well.

This is genuine “Germinal” country as we pass Anzin, with Marchiennes just a little further over on the Scarpe.  Definitely still industrial, but much lighter than in yesteryear, and still very pleasant in most parts.

We had thought of stopping at Condé-sur-Escaut as we come off the Gabarit Canal on to the River Escaut (Scheldt) proper.  But the mooring is too minimal and we carry on down the open river for 13 kms to the Belgium border.  We have an industrial behind us nearly all the way but we seem to be doing the same speed (about 11 kms) and he makes no effort to pass us.

We enter Belgium and the bridge in the picture below marks the border at Bleharies which we go under.  Just as we are thinking “got here” a few missiles start hitting the boat.  Two come through the stern cover, on hits Topsy and another almost hits Glyn, distracting him from steering.  With our industrial friend just behind this is not brilliant.  Two kids are standing on the bridge throwing broken tiles at us.  There are always a very small number of idiots wherever you go, but this was not quite the welcome to Belgium we expected.

Photo 4:  A beautiful view but not such a beautiful welcome to Belgium (3653)

Just another 5 or 6 kms and we enter the Nimy-Peronnes canal, with the just one lock and into our moorings for a few weeks while we return to England.  This is the “small” lock at Peronnes.  The bigger one we will see next time.

The small lock at Peronnes

The lock-keeper has good and clear communication on the VHF but tells us we won’t be able to go into the first basin.  Then another industrial arrives, and he tells us it will be the third basin.  It is not arduous waiting but in the end we wait one-and-a-quarter hours before we can take the lock.  When we moor up at the Peronnes Yacht Club it is just gone 7.30pm.  It has been nearly 11½ hours since we set off.  Priority 1 has to be to get the girls out so that they can stretch their legs and relieve any other pressures.

The Grand Large at Peronnes

The Grand Large lake is a beautiful setting.  Maybe it has been a long day, but the setting and welcome we receive from Ronnie the club captain, Luc the club and port manager, and all the people at Peronnes quickly makes us forget anything going before.  This is a great place.

 Gentle setting for the Yacht Club Moorings

 And we are well tucked in

Youngsters too are practising their water skills

 And the large boats are just over there

So we are at the end of this part of the journey.  The next day is mainly taken up by cleaning, and Glyn going back to Cambrai for the car, a very efficient train journey via Tournai and Lille.  But Peronnes is not near the station, so a 2-3 mile walk provides a healthy start to the day.  It also is a great way to see Peronnes and Antoing and find out where things are.

We spend a day checking out Tournai, a bit of shopping, etc., and then just leaving the boat Bristol fashion before we return home, not for a rest, but for quite a few visitors.  The journey back is quite a long and slow hack around Lille to Calais, but then hi-speed to home.

We’ll be back in a fortnight.