Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Drama, Accidents and Adventure in Belgium: Wimp or Wisdom – a change of plans (4-19 June)

We arrive back at Peronnes on 4 June.  After the incident on the St Quentin, and knowing there is very heavy traffic in Belgium we realise and are advised that we must always have very sound moorings.   We spend some time while in England trying to establish safe moorings on the Leie and the on the Ghent-Oostende canal within reasonable travelling distance each day for a low-lying 18 metre boat which travels at 8 kms per hour.  And we fail.  

Nothing at Courtrai or anywhere near.  We are assured both by the harbour master and Flemish Waterways that we would not be safe there. Nowhere else on the Leie.  There are suitable moorings at Beernem on the G-O, but we can’t reach there in a day.

Back in Peronnes we are reviewing our options.  We also see the excellent Mr Pascal Roeder who is the Inspector for the Nimy-Peronnes waterways and has been wonderfully helpful by email.  He says it is critical to ensure that we are always moored safely in Belgium.

At Peronnes we also meet Roger and Margaret on the Pendragon, a bigger and wider but shorter boat than ours.  They also urge care on the G-O.  We face a real conundrum.  We are low, flat and slow.  While Bruges and Ghent are beautiful, getting there is going to be challenging and stressful at best, and possibly worse.  Reluctantly we decide may be too challenging and decide to change our plans.  Is this wimp or wisdom?  Perhaps a bit of both, but we decide to change our plans.

We tell Mr Roeder this.  He fully understands but says we will have to register our change at our lock of entry, were we agreed our itinerary in Belgium.  Oops!  That didn’t happen as they just recorded that we were going into the “Club” immediately adjacent.  We discover we have just broken Belgian waterways law.  But no matter.  Mr Roeder sorts it all out for us with no fuss whatsoever.  A real gent.  We really are enamoured by Belgian hospitality and friendliness.  We will have to support the “Red Devils” in the World Cup (after all they are from the Group representing Wales!).

On 7th May Chris and David arrive to enjoy a fortnight together.  We explain the change of plans.  They are disappointed like us, but happy to go along with the changed itinerary.

The next day we take a day out in Tournai.  This is a delightful little town, with cheery restaurants and cafes for all tastes, and we enjoy a light lunch and good stroll around.  There is much here of the various wars of Europe, from the Thirty Years War (1618-48), and from before and after that. Charles Quint (earlier – Emperor Charles V: remember him – nephew of Katherine of Aragon, and son of Philip the Fair and Joanna the Mad).  This Burgundian Habsburg ensured that this part of the low countries stayed in Habsburg hands, whether Spanish or Austrian, right up until Napoleon came along.  It was a great day out.

 Linda, David and Chris view the town square in Tournai

Some fine Flemish architecture (can we say that in Wallonia?)

 Fascinating decorated windows in Tournai

Next day we set off down the Nimy Canal to Mons. The big lock at Peronnes (why didn’t we take any photographs) and its industrial barges show we are definitely in big water country. But it is a pleasant trip down to Mons, with no incidents.  As we dock we meet Roger and Margaret from the Pendragon again, who help us moor, and also give us lots of tips over the next of couple of days.
We decide to stay an extra day and have a day out in Mons.  It was well worth it.  A Sunday, but the “Grand Place” was full of life, and there was much to see.  We decided we had better stroke the monkeys, though, but whether this helped or not we would see later.

The Grand Place in Mons

David and Chris stroke the monkey for luck (but will he play tricks?)

Mons’s famous belfry

Cycling for charity in Mons

These are quite long days cruising now, but on Monday we set off down the Canal du Centre towards the Bruxelles–Charleroi canal.  The feature of this is the amazing boat lift at Strepy-Thieu, which lifts the lock with up to eight boats 117 metres.   This was almost worth doing just for this experience, which nevertheless was peaceful and gentle.  So much better than 117 metres of locks!!

The boat lift at Strepy-Thieu

 Inside the boat lift – ready to rise

After a longish day we moored at the beauty spot of Seneffe.  There are not that many places to moor in Belgium but this was well worth it.  Surrounded by beautiful natural countryside, with a pleasant and efficient capitainerie, this is a great spot to visit.  And as it threatened (and indeed provided) bad weather the next day, again we stayed for two days.

The girls enjoyed the great walks, and we cannot believe we do not have any photos, for we thought we had taken several.  Also the town, only a 15 minute cycle ride away, provided adequate stores for anything we needed.

On the second night, enjoying a beautiful stroll, Chris was leaning to look at some interesting plants, and was just standing back when Topsy also decided that there was something interesting to dart at.  The collision took Chris right over, and although she was able to get up, it was obvious that her arm was in considerable pain, even though she made light of it.  It was also quite swollen.  The monkey magic had not worked, and Topsy was really in the dog house.

Worried somewhat about Chris we nevertheless pressed on the next day.  We know there would be at least 8 hours cruising down through Charleroi and then down the Sambre towards Namur.  Everyone told us that Charleroi had black water and was best passed as soon as possible.

The journey started slowly, with several times before Charleroi having to wait considerable times at locks while 85-110m industrial barges took priority.   But we made progress.

It was after lunchtime before we passed Charleroi, but nowhere to moor there, even for half-an-hour.  The waters were indeed black, but to some eyes at least the town has an industrial charm. 

The dark waters at Charleroi

We then progressed down the Sambre, again with an industrial who was alas very slow, and insisting on his rights of priority.  We had been nine hours on the water, and now desperately looking for a mooring.  Finally at Auvelais near Sambreville the lock-keeper said we could moor there for the night, but there was a better mooring just a km downstream, as indeed there was.

We moored up with great relief at 7.30pm – another 11½ hour day.  First priority was to give the girls some relief, and then some supper.  Chris needed a good rest for she was clearly suffering badly from her arm.  She retired for a rest while we took the girls for a longer walk and David did some exploring.

Then suddenly, from somewhere “Aidez-moi! Aidez-moi!”.  We thought it was some youngsters messing about in the park opposite but then another dog walker says No, there is someone in the river.  This was indeed serious.

Out from the only other boat moored with us dashed the Dutch skipper.  Chris thought he was pounding on our boat.  He raced up the steep steps from the mooring and then jumped 40 feet into the water and swam magnificently across the 40 metres of river to grasp the young woman struggling in the water.  But when he was holding her there was no way to get her out of the water, surrounded by high and steep stone walls.  His mate brought their boat over to him, and they got her aboard.

Such drama after a very long day.  Everyone trying to help. Where did all that energy come from?

Rescue at Auvelais-Sambreville - reaching the drowning girl

 Getting her out of the water

 Rescued and being laid down for recovery 

This was indeed a heroic rescue.  Shortly the ambulance and fire brigade arrived to take her from the boat.  The rescuer however wanted no more, not even to give his name.  He had done, he said, what anybody would do.  Not quite, we thought.  It was indeed a very young woman, sadly dressed beautifully in evening wear.  What sad story lay behind this incident? But a very brave Dutchman certainly saved a life that night.

We said our goodbyes to him and his colleague the next morning, and headed on down to Namur.
The journey was reasonable but we were always amongst the industrial big boys, though not too many of them.  At the last lock into Namur we moored a little closely to the lock (it was the only mooring available) and the drag from the industrial exiting gave a real fight to avoid being drawn into her.

Arriving in Namur by boat however gave some wonderful scenery.


 Arriving in Namur


Former warehousing on the Sambre (3693)

 A different architecture in Namur


The downside was the only difficult official we met throughout Belgium.  The lock-keeper at the first lock on the Meuse didn’t want us mooring on his side (which is where we should moor) and was very stroppy about it.  Then he wanted us to moor on bollards we couldn’t reach.  Then he decided he would really have a go and issued a formal warning about the tyres we used as fenders at front and rear.  Maybe he was just having a bad day, but he let Belgium down.

Turning into the Meuse
That afternoon we wanted only to moor up and rest, but Chris was clearly seriously in pain and her arm now quite swollen.   David insisted rightly that we sought a doctor, but finding one nearby on the internet proved elusive.  So we sought out a pharmacy, who directed us to a doctor nearby.  A quaint old-fashioned surgery, but a very efficient and friendly doctor. He suspected a fracture and immediately arranged an X-ray at the regional hospital, and even organised a taxi for us.  And he would accept no payment.  You are guests in Belgium he insisted.  It was so reassuring to be back to normal Belgian friendliness after the lock-keeper.
Not so good for Chris, though.  It was indeed a serious fracture, and her arm would be plastered for 4-6 weeks, severely limiting her movement.  And she was clearly in pain, but nevertheless took it boldly.  The hospital was amazingly efficient. X-rays, diagnosis, plastering and medication, all in one hour. (In contrast we hear later that our grandson Alfie had to go to hospital in England at exactly the same time for a stitch over his eye, and that took three hours.  Was it just good and bad luck or are our systems so different?)
Saturday was return to Tournai/Antoing/Peronnes for David and Glyn to collect the cars. The taxi to the station turned out a nightmare as it seemed that nearly every street in Namur had road works.  They should have had a half hour to spare to catch the train, but only just made it.
David spotted a good connection at Tournai back to Antoing, and Glyn suggested they walk back to Peronnes, only a couple of miles.  As the sun rose higher and stronger in the sky, with no shade, it seemed longer.  So they thought they could cheat and have a coffee and some lunch at the “Club”.  Luc and his assistant were as ever very affable.
They decided to drive back to Namur separately but somehow stayed together until Mons where they got separated, but then somehow were suddenly back together, and then separated again.  David drove back through the centre of Namur and confirmed it was a nightmare.  He had no desire to go back in.  Glyn cheated by taking the ridge road from Mons to the Meuse valley and then driving down from Dinant along the river – a beautiful view – avoiding the town.

We all felt deserved a treat by now, and Chris especially deserved one.  So we decided to drive up to Yvoir to check out the moorings, and have a meal out.  Alas the restaurant on the island was closed, but we found a quite good Vietnamese restaurant, which if slow was very acceptable.
The next day we contacted Yvoir about mooring there, but they were adamant they had no space for an 18 metre as they were very full on Sundays.  

So we motored by car up the river as far as Givet in France, to look at the various moorings.  Dinant looked good with plenty of options, others possible, but Givet itself presented a dilemma with fingers too short or a quay wall far too high. We spoke to la Capitaine at Givet but she thought it would be difficult to use the fingers.  We left a car at Givet and decided Dinant and Givet would be our next ports of stop.

Dinant was wonderful if a little noisy.  An excellent place which should sell its tourist wares rather more we thought.  But it is dominated by tributes to Adolphe Saxe, the inventor of the Saxophone.  Every saxophonist should visit here.  It seemed that many did!

The splendour of Dinant

Saxophones on the Bridge

Mr Saxe himself

Moored opposite Saxe street

 Chris, David and Linda with the Golden Saxe

We really enjoyed our visit here, though alas there were road works right next to us (is this Belgian pastime?) which started up at 7am and so pointed out time to move on up the river,
The Meuse at this point is wide, magnificent and the valley beautiful.

The Chateau de Freyer between Dinant and Givet

Crossing the border at Quatre Fontaines

We crossed the border where we had to register our entry into France.  Glyn explained we had all the documentation, and he even had the hat (at Riqueval he had cheekily asked and been given a VNF cap) but didn’t have the T-shirt.  Ah! They are only for workers or cost $1000 said the VNF staff.  But I used to be a worker, joked Glyn.  And to his surprise they presented him with an old but cleanly washed VNF polo shirt. (T-shirts really are only for workers!)

And so into Givet.  We tried the fingers but they really were too short with no stability for the boat.  So we tried the quay wall.  We would have to use a ladder to get out.  Chris couldn’t manage this (with her arm in plaster) nor could the dogs. Whoo-eey!

Then Chris had a master stroke.  She had noticed that as we had passed the industrial port they did have a low quay.  A few days earlier Glyn had called them by mistake and they were very amenable.  We had cars so we could always drive the couple of miles into town.  A quick call to the commercial port and yes they are still very amenable.  We cruise back the 2 or 3 kms and the mooring is good, even if the scenery somewhat industrial.  We decide we deserve another meal out.  David and Linda drive back to Namur to collect the second car.  And we have a very good meal in the local Logis.

Night view of Givet

Moored at Givet industrial port




The girls at least are enjoying this mooring


But we are worried that ex-restaurant boat La Boheme might fall on us

From Givet we move upstream to Fumay, including through the short tunnel at ham where incidentally we discover our headlamp doesn’t work.  Need to watch that!

Remains of the Roman wall at Givet

Slate quarries upstream from Givet

The tunnel at Ham

It was very pleasant at Fumay.  The quay wall is still high but just manageable with 45º gang planks.  It was also market day which added to the interest.  Chris and David will leave us here to head back to Ypres and Popperinge for some WW1 family memorials, but first they help us take our car to Pont-a-Bar so it will be there for us at the end of this journey.  Glyn tries to arrange a blood test.  Not locally they say, but we’ll get a nurse to come to you.  And they do, directly to the boat, to take a sample.  Health service to your door! 


Moored at Fumay

From here we will head up to Pont-a-Bar on our own.  It was so great with Chris and David that we will miss them sorely.  Although we enjoy our time on our own, having good friends really does add a further dimension of enjoyment.  And Chris and David are such great company. We hope they, though, are not too sore after Chris’s horrendous fall.  

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