Morverc'h: Going South Again (25-30 March)

Randonneurs and Walkers

So, Sunday 25^th March, and we are finally off. Intriguingly (“c’est marron” say the French) today there is a major fundraising walk from the Centre Socio-Culturel exactly where the boat is moored. The first walkers started at 07.00 and we passed a good few with the dogs’ early morning walk. Now as we go out along the main canal many are coming back. Its is now 11.00 and we reflect, were we now still in England we would be joining the Malmesbury Walkers for the Sunday ramble. We are thinking of you guys, and hope you have the same lovely weather as here:

Sunday Morning Walkers (Randonneurs) on the Canal Lateral

Was This the Problem?

We cross over the Pont Canal and the Loire. No problems now. And 3 or 4 kilometres on we see a lonely digger along some rough but also newly cemented canal bank. So this was the problem which held us up for three weeks. It all seems so much nothing now. But at least the canal is functioning for everyone before Easter.

New Concrete on the Lateral

On the way – and Slowing Down

Even though we were kicking our heels in Briare it is interesting that the body and brain still kept functioning at normal pace. We thought we were resting, but somehow not. But here as we wend our way through Chatillon (sur-Loire of course) and onward to the first night’s stop at Léré and then drift onwards on the Monday towards Herry, we actually feel that the world is really slowing. These are well worn waters, and we are not going slow, but we feel we are cruising slowly. At Herry we can rest with the boat open to the bank, and the girls (dogs) can wander freely, as long as they don’t disturb the sole angler. There is even a bench to sit, sunbathe and read.

Linda and the Girls at Herry – Oh! That Sun’s Too Strong

The Gateway to the South

Day 3 and we push on South to Guetin. Here we leave the Sub-Division of Briare, and the Department of the Cher. For us its giant double lock is always the gatehouse to the South. On the way we note how Marseilles-les-Aubigny has been cleaned up and many of the rotten hulks removed (is this the bright side of metal shortage?). But at Cours-les-Barres not a boat to be seen. We pass one German-flagged boat which is actually cruising and another moored but preparing to cruise. These are the only moving boats we have seen in three days. We know the sail boat the Mandrella is ahead of us, and the lock-keepers say these are the only boats moving at the moment.

La Guérite a Guetin

and In the Bowels of the Lock

No Boats at Decize or Anywhere

Day 4 and the great drag around Nevers to Decize. But again the canal seems fresh and clean. Even at Pont Carreau it seems pleasant and we cruise towards Plagny and the Nevers branch. Our friendly lock-keeper at Fleury has no veg this time of year, but is chatty as he sees us through the last three locks. We reach Decize at 5.00pm (a later day than usual), and before checking with the VNF office that the Roanne canal is open, we go to look at the port, expanded and re-opened last year. The section for Le Boat hire company is full (no hire boats out yet) but the new port is nearly empty. Where have all the boats gone?

Empty Port at Decize

There is Industry in These Here Parts

So the next day we head on South towards Digoin and the Canal de Roanne. It will take two more days before we reach new waterways. We pass by Desbre. Last year some quite large cargo boats were here. But the cement works is still in full production, and it is interesting to see some industry after all the countryside. And the last lock of the day is Clos du May, reputedly where the “dernier poil” (last surviving soldier of the First World War) was the lock-keeper in the 20s-40s, according to the novel by Jean Anglade.

Cement Works at Besbre

The Loire and the Breeze as we Reach the Roanne

We pass the night at Beaulon, a nice spot well-beloved of Motorhome (RV) travellers. They do provide free electricity. We lunch the next day at Diou. This is a beautiful well-organised village and one of our favourite stops. It will be the last before we reach the Roanne.

Village next to the Quay at Diou

Just after Diou the canal almost touches the Loire, and the breeze off the Loire is quite strong. Linda and the lock-keeper get quite windblown opening the lock gates for out final lock. But it is gorgeous sunshine still.