Of Fog and Hills and Sunshine
It’s Saturday morning, the last day of March. Finally we are on getting into new territory. We are moored just 2 kms off the Canal de Roanne, which leaves the Lateral and follows the Loire valley up into the hills.
We’ve arranged the first lock at 09.15 so will set off at 08.45. First up to walk the dogs and breakfast. But wow it’s a pea-souper. At 07.15 you can hardly see your hand in front of you. We go a few hundred yards and Shady wants to go back. She can hear the road and cars even if she can’t see them. She goes on strike. Topsy does a couple hundred more metres but now she is frightened because she can’t see anything. She darts back and sits beside Shady. Well, we’ve done the essential walk, and there is no way they are going anywhere but back to the boat.
We leave as planned at 08.45. As we leave the mist is slowly rising over the fields and cattle next to us. We have to use navigation lights. There are a couple of bridges to pass and we can’t see through them, and in the unlikely event there is another boat out there, it couldn’t see us.
Mist and cattle at the mouth of the Roanne
We reach the first lock, one of three. Semi-automatic, we have to pull the rope to start the lock opening. We can just see it in the mist, though the mist is now rising fast. We only get one rope on, and don’t know how fierce the inflow will be, so we keep the engines running if needed. The lock-keeper helps us with the rope. In fact the inflow is very soft and slow. The third lock is 6 metres deep, our deepest so far. Not very frightening at all with a very helpful lock-keeper. But three locks take an hour and a half.
The next lock – Bourg-le-Comte – at 7.20metres is 15kms away, so there is no way we can make it by lunchtime. The keeper advises we aim for 14.00, and take lunch break at Bonnant until 13.00, which will give us the right amount of time to get to BLC. Bonnand is a pleasant spot but very shallow at the sides. The mooring bollards are near broken banks where we could not possibly moor, and the quay has no bollards. We moor up with mooring pins. But still have to stay out 1m20 as the water is shallow.
They call this the peaceful canal, and indeed it is. We cruise gently at 6 kms. This is mainly pasture land, quite green despite the lack of rain. Almost nothing moves. At several points the canal almost touches the Loire itself. Still quite wide in places, and very graceful.
The Loire through Trees
The deepest of the super locks
We reach BLC 15 minutes early and the lock-keeper arrives 10 after 2 and then needs 10 minutes to open the gates. So we hover. This is a seriously deep lock. And when he opens the gates he only opens the lower part – we have to motor in beneath the upper gates.
Lock with Upper Gates Closed
We say we are going to moor up here for the day. In fact there are no moorings or facilities, but there is a nice clean shuttered bank with reasonable depth, and the lock-keeper helps us moor. Amazingly he has another boat coming in an hour. This will be only the second other boat we have seen cruising in seven days (and we haven’t seen that many moored).
We thought we were still in the Allier department, but he assures us we are now in Saone-et-Loire (Burgundy), and when we reach Roanne, where he lives, we will be the Loire department of the Rhone-Alpes region. The Auvergne, Burgundy and Rhone-Alpes all in the space of a day or so. Ah! The Loire department – St. Etienne – Allez les Verts! It’s amazing how an old football slogan can make the best introductions. St. Etienne are doing better after a few years in the dumps. But sadly it’s all money these days, he says, but it’s worse in England though it looks like “you are already going down the chute”.
We’ve moored up. This is beautiful country and so quiet. Just look at the pictures. The village above us. The valley plain down below. The descent to the boat (with girls in foreground). Linda reading quietly on the front deck. And the boat moored with the lock behind us. They can speak better than words. We had a great afternoon.
Bourg-le-Comet at the Hilltop
Linda only wants to read while Glyn walks the dogs up there
View over the Plan from the Top
And down to the boat, with girls in foreground.
Training your Assistant
This wonderful lock-keeper advised us that the “youngsters” were doing locks tomorrow (Sunday). Only three locks about 4 kms away at Chamilly. We look at the “halte nautique” at Chamilly and are pleased we stayed at BLC. At the first lock they are very ready for us and are totally efficient, though is it Grandad assisting or instructing this young eclusieuse. They are very enthusiastic and keen. The second lock has one young eclusieuse working on her own. She gets us through well though, but has a fascination with her mobile phone. Is it her “mecq” or is she trying to contact the next lock?
At the next lock they are not ready for us. We wait 25 minutes and are beginning to wonder whether we should land and investigate. This is another 6 metre lock. But finally two young lock-keepers from the lock cottage / office, and we go through nicely. The senior of the two apologises to us, though we say we are not in a rush so don’t worry. She explains the last lock-keeper didn’t warn her we were coming, but looks very embarrassed. She was obviously engrossed in training her assistant we think, and didn’t her the phone call, though training him in what we are not sure. We wish them a very good day, and genuinely hope they have it.
Self Service at Iguerande and Outre Loire
No more locks today, and it is still quite sunny and warm. Our destination is Briennon (two “n”s in the middle) – another 17 kms, but we want to visit Iguerande at lunchtime, and visit the oil mill they have there, as well as possibly climb up to the imposing 12th century church. So we moor up at Outre Loire, just a small landing in effect, but quite pretty. We have to walk across the Loire (on a bridge: even though a Sunday we are not yet walking on water) which with the dogs and traffic needs a little management. The helpful boulangere not only provides excellent bread but tells us where to find the oil mill, and advises it will be open.
Alas a sign on the door says “ouvert à 14.30”. This must mean “at” rather than “to”, but we can’t wait until then, and more hopeful than expectant we push the door. It opens. Linda muses for 10 minutes and finds some things she wants. No-one appears. She tries knocking on some internal doors and pressing bells. Still no-one. But of course, what shop in village France is going to be open at 1230 on a Sunday.
So we price the items we want, scribble a note and leave with it just a fraction more in notes than the total we would owe. Are we thieves? What if someone takes the money? We leave our telephone number just in case.
We decide it’s too late to walk up the church, but at least get a nice photo of it.
Iguerande crowned with bell tower (and alas crane)
Boats, boats at last
We will move on towards Briennon. As we get back to the landing the Aventuur out of the Medway (did van Tromp beat Admiral Blake after all?) is there trying to take water, but alas it is April Fool’s Day and not turned on. And further on we pass the Tokoloshe (Jane and Peter) though we only have time we wave as we make sure we pass safely in the relatively narrow channel. And then behind is a trip / restaurant boat. Finally, finally there are some boats on the canals.
Once we reach Briennon we call the Oil Mill at Iguerande. No he hasn’t seen our note! Beneath the desk calculator. Oh! Yes. He is very pleasant and is worried that we have left a Euro too much. At least we breathe easy now.
Briennon, Beer and Boules in the Sun
Briennon is much smaller than we expected, but beautiful in the sun, and the canal tow path is flowing (now after Sunday lunch) with families out walking or just playing “Boules”. This is almost idyllic France. We put up our whirly gig and hang out the washing. We contact the Capitainerie, but we have to go back later to see Capitaine Frederique. It was his trip boat we hauled ahead of! We have a beer in the cafe right beside the port.
Linda with Beer (can you see washing (red shirt above blue car) in background?)
Tales of 1984 and All That
We meet Captain Fredo and check that the port has pump-out facilities. He explains there is a convenient depository we can use, but we have to pay €2 to the Mairie. We check out what he tells us and prepare for the morning. However the very nice lady at the Mairie knows nothing of this and is surprised there is a facility. Nobody has paid before she says. And after very many phone calls, says we can use it but pay at the Capitainerie. Finally all sorted and we can do an hygienic pump-out.
We set everything up, open the facility, and start pumping. Suddenly however two rather large residents push through to the surface. They are really not happy that we have interrupted them. Neither is Linda who is totally alarmed at this point. Like Winston in 1984 these are not, definitely not, Linda’s favourite creatures. And they are very big. Then one decides to make a dash for it, straight past us and into the canal. (sorry, no picture.) And when it starts to climb the fender on to the boat, this is really too much.
Cap’n Fredo to the Rescue
Luckily at this point quite independently Captain Fredo has come over to see how we are getting on. All OK, except for the visitors. He grabs the boat hook and quickly despatches it against the side of the canal. This was some excitement Linda really didn’t want. But we clear up easily and quickly, and off we go. We liked Briennon and will be back to tomorrow, but not in a thousand years is Linda going near that drain again.
Some German Twinning
So Off we go to complete the run to Roanne. We meet a very nice German family also moored at Briennon, from Cologne. We lock with them through the next two locks, but tell them to go ahead after that as we will travel more slowly. Alas for them when we reach Roanne they are held waiting in the lock. We apologise profusely, but they are relaxed, and are happy to help us speak German, even though their English is so much better.
Don’t Watch the Barometer
Meanwhile we have been watching the barometer, which John Harbour fixed for us last year. When we left Briare just over a week ago and for the next few days it was up at 1040, near the “D” in “Very Dry”. Since Guetin it has been falling. Down to the “V” at 1030 by Thursday evening, and to the “R” in “Fair” at 1020 by Friday. By Saturday it was down to the “F” in Fair (1010) though it picks back up again a little on Sunday. But by Monday morning it was down to the “E” in “Change” at 1005, and by Monday evening, even though it’s been a sunny day, it is down to the “C” at 995. We are heading into rain.
Lovely, Noisy, Industrial Roanne
So we enter Roanne port beginning to worry about the weather. We will stay 24 hours. The port, quite contrary to Briennon, is much larger than we thought, but well set out. It takes 100 boats, we knew, but did not appreciate the expanse of water in between. The first impression is really good, and we are also welcomed by local boaters Jane (who is Swedish) and earlier Doug who is Yank. There is really friendly community here, and the Port captain is really helpful.
The Reach of the Port at Roanne
Here also the canal again directly abuts the Loire, which is wider than we expected. But it has been barraged and is having a second barrage constructed to create a hydro-electric facility. As with the barrage on the Rance at Dinard-St. Malo France seems ahead of the UK in this area. But the construction work does make the river look industrial. Though on the other hand would this canal be here at all, if it wasn’t in earlier times to bring industrial products from St. Etienne and Clermont Ferrand down to Paris.
Hydro-Electric Barrage being constructed on the Loire at Roanne
Sadly though, Roanne does not work for us. There are no easy-to-reach shops, launderettes, or even a cafe near the port. And we are surprised how noisy it is (noisier than Sens and Auxerre which are bigger towns). Jane told us where we can walk the dogs, and while after only 1 km there is big open field, it is surrounded by significant roads with continuous traffic. Shady who doesn’t like traffic is quickly distressed and heads back for the boat. But by then the clang and clatter of the building works on the Loire barrage and other nearby works have also spooked Topsy. We have two very unhappy dogs.
We retire for the night wondering what to do tomorrow. The traffic seems to continue all through the night.
The Bikes have their Purpose
Having looked vainly for a supermarket last evening we use the EurEauWeb Satnav to locate a supermarket and do our essential shopping. It is not close so we use the bikes and their panniers, and can just about get everything in. But dog food and milk do weigh! We get back to the boat and given the difficulties in finding walks for the dogs, we decide to go back early to Briennon – rats and all. In addition the Barometer is still falling towards 990 and “Rain”. So we make a run for it.
“English Weather” in a French Accent
After the port lock for next two we again have the lock-keeper from Saturday whom we met at Bourg-le-Comte on the way up. As we enter his first lock (Cornillon) he is in shorts and summer kit but holds up his cupped hands and says in English “Hello There – You’ve brought the English Weather”. We have a laugh together and say it is hardly rain (it is hardly spotting). No, he says, switching back to French, that’s the worst, cold and damp but still no use to farmers or canals, so indeed - “English Weather”.
The Fortified Farm
Just by this lock is also a fascinating fortified farm. From one angle it might almost be a chateau. From another a clear secure working farm. Sadly we only have time to photograph and not to visit (even if we were allowed to).
Chateau or Farm at Cornillon?
The Fortified Square of the Farm
By the second lock (Briennon) however the rain has turned to a slow drizzle. Our lock-keeper dons his long mackintosh from head to toe. We tease him – Now you look like an Englishman! He laughs, pulls up the skirt of his mackintosh to show his bare legs beneath the shorts. Not English he says, I’m wearing trainers not sandals, and I haven’t pulled my socks up to my knees, which he then does and walks almost John Cleese like to show us how he sees an Englishman. This is really great companionship and fun on a cold and damp afternoon.
So we arrive back in Briennon. The Sun fights to break through a little, the dogs have freedom and walks, but it is still cold. We light Philippe’s stove (we think of it as his now) and have a very warm cosy evening.
A Cheery Irish Watering
We set off just after 0900 next (Wednesday) morning. We have 18 kms to the first lock, but we need to take on water and have developed the canallers’ unwillingness to pay for it. At Melay they won’t charge us €2 or €5. As we set off we pass our “English Weather” lock-keeper. But he is on more serious duties today, checking to see whether yesterday’s rain did anything for the canal level. No problems he says, but not much help.
We reach Melay where a lovely Irish couple Kevin and Eleanor (on the Kevelle of course). The tap is quite a way from the quay, but they offer an extension hose should we need it. Surprisingly we don’t as our own hose goes nearly 50 metres, but the thought is the important things. Two French families on hire boats moor up, and we all help with mooring. The dogs love the attention. Kevin and Eleanor are from Dublin but widely travelled in France. There’s an Irishman in every port and Kevin knows everyone one of them. He has had to give up his painting in the damp weather, and is saddened when we tell him the meteo says no warm dry weather again until Monday. Not only do you beat at rugby he complains, but you bring bad news as well. We hope we’ll meet them again.
And so on back to Bourg-le-Comte. Open countryside and the girls really enjoy their freedom. It is still cool, so after blogging and supper we again light Philippe’s fire, and settle down for a cosy evening. On Thursday we float gently down again past Bonnand and have a long stop at Croix Rouge, which offers the basic facilities if one wanted an overnight stop. And then we are on the Lateral and in Digoin for the night. A fill up of diesel and so ready for tomorrow, Good Friday, and the Canal du Centre.
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