Morverc'h: Calm and Tranquility – Moselle to Marne (6- 21 April)

Tuesday 8 April - Toul (Meurthe-et-Moselle)

Here we are back in Toul for the start of a new season. Though we soon find out that locally no-one thinks the season starts until 1 May. On the 6^th we made Malmesbury to Toul in one day as no suitable Logis were open for us to overnight. A 15-hour day but we are able to quickly de-winterise and spend the night on the boat. Yesterday we spent “provisioning”, having a bit of rest, giving the girls some fuss and walks, solving a few minor water problems, and quickly getting shipshape. Today we sorted our dues to the Port-de-France and Lorraine Marine. Duncan has sorted our alternator problem. Tomorrow we are on our way.

Sunday 13 April – Tronville (Meuse)

We set off on Wednesday. 12 locks uphill to Foug. Linda cycled all the way so that we had someone quayside to take ropes. At Foug the lockkeeper shouts and gesticulates, but he is only telling us he wants us portside and rear in the lock because of the thrust. We get priority through the tunnel and the other pass an actual Dutchman on a Dutch barge. Only boat seen that day.

We overnight at Pargny, always a lovely spot. We decide that on Thursday for the rest of the rise to the summit Linda can do it by car. But at Void we learn that electricity to some of the locks is down, so we are accompanied half the way by a team with a generator. Nice and easy. They arrange for us to pass the Mauvage Tunnel that day, but as there are no other boats some poor VNF man is designated to cycle through the tunnel behind us – just in case.

Baudignécourt is peaceful and beautiful, though Glyn has to cycle back over the mountain to collect the car. As a 16 year old in the Welsh valleys it wouldn’t have taken a second thought. Here the 10 miles takes him an hour and a half. The violets here are fantastic.

We quickly descend down to Tréveray for a night, as beautiful as last year, and then on to Ligny. Only remarkable thing is an open lock with two red lights. We ponder what to do but decide to ignore the lights.

Lock ready but “do not enter”

No-one at all around, except a few walkers. Not even any fishermen yet! But one of our eternal friends is always with us.

Eternal friend as we descend towards the Marne

As we approach Tréveray the cherry trees are in full blossom. The journey has been quite cool in the mornings, with occasional frosts, but beautifully sunny afternoons.

Cherry blossom at Tréveray

And then – our first fisherman.

Throwing out a line on the Marne-au-Rhin

Just outside Ligny we pass a French cruiser out for the day. He is as surprised to see us as we him. Just two boats in 4 days.

Ligny is dead, but power and water is available though nowhere to pay for it. A few locals fascinated that we are there at this time of year. Powered and watered we have come on here to Tronville, a beautiful quiet spot. We expected to be on our own but Len from the Wirral, single-handed with a big Dutch barge, is passing time here, working on his boat. So three boats so far, though Len is not actually cruising, so really two. No three! Next morning at 07h00 a fully laden industrial passes on carrying steel from Luxembourg to somewhere in the north of France.

Thursday 18 April – Bignicourt (Marne)

From Tronville we cruised straight through Bar-le-Duc which also had no boats in it, though we catch up with our industrial friend and have to cruise slowly behind him. We overnight at Fains-les-Sources, taking power and water. The lock-keeper on this section is very friendly, and gives Glyn a lift back to the car, so he doesn’t get his daily cycle ride. At the bakers next morning we try to pay the small charge for facilities used overnight, but no, it’s not May yet. She can’t possibly take our money. The bread and croissants are excellent. Next stage is to Revigny and again we are on our own. We did however pass two Swedish yachts clearly travelling together. So now 5 boats on the move. At Revigny the wildflowers are beautiful and we can’t resist picking some cowslips and ladies’ smock.

Bedeck the boat with Spring wild flowers.

At Pargny we again partake of free electricity and water, but two boats either side of us are occupied one by a Norman who now lives at Toulon, and one a local couple. But they are not cruising.

Boats moored at Pargny-sur-Saulx

We have something in common with the local couple. They also sport the Catalan donkey!

A donkey to match our own.

And now we arrived at Bignicourt where we spend two days. No power or water, but we have plenty, but just an idyllic spot. We can shop at Vitry (le-Francois) without having to moor there. But just enjoy this great beauty spot.

Lindy and Shady enjoying the morning sun

But Topsy prefers to show off and make a noise

From here we also take time out to visit the Lac du Der, again deserted at this time of year, but then the wind is a bit chilly. But another beautiful spot.

Lac du Der (Can you spot the single sailing boat in the distance?)

Easter Monday 21 April – Chepy-sur-Marne

We left Bignicourt on Saturday, having used some of the time to explore mooring on the Marne. We had originally planned Chaussée-sur-Marne, but the mooring is cut off by a property. Locals advised against crossing this but it did not seem too bad, until two ferocious uncontrolled Alsatians through themselves snarling and snapping against the gate. Perhaps locals do know best. Pogny a little further on is quite OK, though a little bare and post-industrial. We decided that we would look at some other places as we passed on the boat. So we set off and completed the downstream to Vitry in 3 hours, turning directly into the Canal Lateral a la Marne. Couvrot seemed to three possible mooring. The first was very pleasant and we stopped there for lunch. Alas however no access for either bikes or cars.

The beautiful setting at Couvrot

Here we clearly find the high chalky hills which make the Champagne region what it is. But some of them are can be quite industrial from quarrying.

Chalk cliffs at Couvrot

The other two at Couvrot were definitely old industrial quays. What the French would call “moche”.

Here too we lose the automatic cell detectors which open the locks and have now to pull on the Perches, hanging over the water. Not too difficult, though you have you get the boat right under them, and some are hard to reach.

Perches to open the locks – good to exercise the shoulders

But then we alighted on Soulanges. A beautiful spot. Here we also spent two days as we understood from the guide book that the locks were closed on Easter Sunday, only to discover the next day that they were not. This was a fascinating little village set down below the hills. With one of them dedicated to Resistants who were lost during the war. Soulanges is almost cut off from everywhere, but well worth finding.

Can you see us – moored at Soulanges?

The avenue of crosses at Soulanges

This mooring is very good for anyone coming this way. Even the fishermen all around you are friendly and chatty.

Trees line the mooring bank at Coulanges

And then we set off for here – Chepy – our last stop before Chalons-en-Champagne. Again a very quiet, beautifully pleasant mooring, away from everywhere for those who want to escape. On the way we pass remnants of the old industrial past.