Saturday 1 October (Friends from England)
It’s a lovely day on Saturday morning. Walking the dogs we chat to Greg and Cecilia on the Vrouwe Catharina. They finally got away from Migennes, with no problems on the Seine, but are now steaming ahead to get to Briare, while we will take it very slowly. We order a taxi to the station to meet Pete and Jan from England, but the train times change and we have to re-book. No problem and the taxi driver is very easy. He gives a history of Montargis through new eyes, explaining it no longer has its old castle because the English destroyed it (a long long time ago). Pete and Jan are with us for the next five days. They have had a good time in Paris, but this is a very different sort of France. They settle in and then we go out for another good meal, followed by an evening to relax and enjoy.
Sunday 2 October (Learning the Ropes)
Sunday and off we set on the final stage of the journey. Pete helps with the mooring ropes, if only Topsy would get off them. She thinks they are her day sleeping place, not for use for mooring. At the first lock we discover that the lock-keeper will be with us for six locks. A nice gentle journey. We lunch at Montbouy, and then in the evening we discover Chatillon-Coligny. Another town partly destroyed by the English. Oh dear! It is actually a quite beautiful old town. One of the squares though seems totally taken over by semi-feral cats. The dogs see this as a challenge. Even on a Sunday the patisserie here is open until 7pm, so we order / buy some gorgeous cakes and then retire for a relaxing evening on board.
Monday 3 October (Gold Star for Chatillon)
Chatillon-Coligny boasts a pump-out. On the way up a very nice lady at the port tourist office said we could use it but she would be shut from 1 October. But she gave us a number to call if we wanted to use it. And true to her word two engineers from the town council come to help us pump-out. And – a first since we’ve been in France – it works, although a little maintenance is required due to lack of use. The guys who do the work are really excellent and insist (even in October) it’s all part of the service and no charge. We decide we love Chatillon-Coligny, and we really do. Hey guys in the big world out there, this is small town in France you ought to visit. Then we wind our way slowly down to Rogny, though overtaken by some impetuous Australians. But we have a good friendly chinwag with them at lunchtime. Rogny is small but beautiful (though their mooring charges are somewhat excessive) and we discover for just a few miles we have re-entered Burgundy. With Pete and Jan we take more time to examine the impressive staircase. Not as big or long as Caen Hill, but much earlier and amazingly impressive for early 17th century engineering.
Tuesday 4 October (Ouzouer makes you Welcome)
We are really having a wonderfully slow and lazy time, though plenty of walking and chatting. Today we will slouch down to Ouzouer-sur-Trezee. Again there are six locks with one lock-keeper to work them all. We go over the summit at Gazonne.
The Summit at Gazonne - with Autumn Setting In
You can see now that summer is over but it is still beautiful and peaceful, even if it could be warmer. Pete and Jan ought to come back in the summer sometime. We are now trusted to work the locks all our own trusted with the locks all on our own as we descend to Ouzouer. This is a light and friendly village, sparkling in the afternoon after-rain. Sadly the cafe is closed for food (no food at the inn) but beer in the sunlight is very enjoyable and refreshing. We sit quietly preparing our evening meal when along the bank come Michelle and Marie-Aimee. (Michelle who lives in Ouzouer is a good friend from twinning links, and Marie-Aimee her daughter has just moved to Nevers.) We have a great natter, and then part our ways for another lovely quiet evening
Wednesday 5 October (Crepes, Churches, Canals and Aloyau)
The final short stage to Briare. Again we are left in charge of the locks ourselves. It only takes two hours. When we arrive Bruno (our “Capitaine du Port” – neither harbour master nor marina manager seem a good translation) is always so good as he gives us a choice to moor on the left or right bank, and is perfectly understanding when we change our minds. We go to the cafe right next to us to have delicious crepes and galettes for lunch, and then in the afternoon we all four stroll along the Loire before visiting the impressive St Stephen’s Church which amazingly we (Linda and Glyn) have never been inside before, but Jan and Pete say it might be worth a look, and it really is. In the evening we walk the Pont Canal (well not Glyn of course) - the impressive Eiffel aqueduct over the Loire. And then we have an excellent meal at the P’tit St Tropez, on Pete and Jan again. Gosh eating out in France with Pete and Jan is exceedingly cheap (for us!).
A Great Evening at the P'tit St Trop
Thursday 6 October (Au Revoir and Bonjour)
Pete and Jan have to head back for Paris and home in England. We decide they really do not need to get the 8:22. So have a little more time in the morning to make our goodbyes. The dogs get a very good walk afterwards. Glyn and Linda have to do some shopping afterwards. First to get petrol when we are accosted by someone who appears from nowhere and has bought an English car in the middle of France and needs our card to fill up as he only has cash! But he doesn’t (want to) approach any French. Sadly we are very distrustful. Afterwards we wonder whether we should have helped. Who knows? Then other shopping and we meet old friends Cecile (Roger) and Annie (Delbecq) in all sorts of places you don’t expect.
Friday 7 October and onwards
It really is autumn now. We need heating in the mornings. We are very lucky to have meals with various friends in and around Briare and Gien. The weekend is totally taken up. On Tuesday we winterize the boat (all very easy except for empting the hot water cylinder which spills all over the engine room floor). And then a drive to Dinard to spend a wonderful few days with Jean-Guy and Marie-Paule, great friends from the Brittany days, where we reminisce about old times and old friends, and eat amazingly well. (Why eat out when your hosts cook like this?)
This last fortnight has been fantastic. But now it’s St Malo to Portsmouth, and winter at home. We will miss France, but England is nice too. See you again next year!!!
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