Journey to the Summit (15-22 April)
Friday 15th April
If we are to make Briare, via the Nivernais and Decize, by 6-7-8-9 May we need to get to Auxerre today, down the river Yonne and off it into the Nivernais. This is 20 kilometres and 10 locks. We plan to start early, sharp at 9am, when the locks open. But we are double moored with Ruth and Terry (we never got the family name) on a Dutch barge called the Verwisseling outside us. They weren’t planning to leave so early and are only going 4 locks to Gurgy. However they agree to come with us. They really were good companions and helpful as we did the first four locks together. However experienced we are in the UK their presence and guidance was much appreciated. We can use pontoons in some of the locks which have sloping sides, and go down attached to the pontoon which makes it very easy. The Verwisseling is too big for that.
We take lunch at Gurgy. A very pleasant spot with a good boulangerie. We learn early that you have to take lunch on the French canals. We leave at 1.30pm leaving Ruth and Terry behind. Now we are on our own. We have to do six locks and 12 kilometres. Can we do it by 6.30 to get onto the Nivernais?
The Yonne is quite big and wide but the lock keepers are helpful and professional and we make Auxerre by just after 4pm. One “proposes” to us to buy some wine. We don’t really have much storage but this is the first such “offer” so we agree. It is not a good buy on this occasion, very over-priced, but often these proposals can be very good indeed. We accept we have been taken on this occasion.
We have decided to go straight past the main river front at Auxerre and immediately on to the canal, mooring in a park at the end of town. We start going through the town and it is 4.15pm. Somebody shouts and waves from the river bank. To our surprise it is Simon Evans who is working on one of the boats. Of course it’s only 20 minutes drive from Migennes, which we have already down several times.
Auxerre Ahoy!
Auxerre is a lovely town (or should we say city) with some lovely cafes and an interesting cathedral. Well worth a visit.
Mooring in the park turns out to be trickier than we thought. All the mooring is indicated and bollards available there are big stones wedged against the bank and mooring close is not so feasible. Half an hour later we have managed something, if sticking out a little.
The cafe we found on an earlier visit is not open (this becomes a bit of a repeated theme) but we can walk the dogs along the river (the canal here is in reality still the river), watch the canoeists (they seem to be practising for something important), venture out into the countryside, and then back to the boat for our own supper. We try one of the lock keeper’s white wines. Not much to it on first taste, but in fairness there is lovely lingering fruity taste, so not too bad after all (though still over priced).
We have a bench alongside our mooring. A young couple take residence about 6.30pm. They become quite entwined and are quite oblivious of us just some 10 feet away. It’s lovely to see such young love even if it gets a bit amorous and forceful. At 8.30 we take the dogs for their walk before nightfall, and get back about 9.15. Love’s young dreams are still entwined. But gosh it’s getting cold. We are worried for them, but they are oblivious to the world. We go to bed at 10.30. It’s dark and cold. But they are still entwined. Is this a lesson in French love for us?
Saturday 16th April
Glyn gets up at 6.45 to make the coffee and tea and walk the dogs. It has been really cold in the night. Love’s young dreams did eventually go somewhere warmer. Glyn is back about 8.00. There has been a frost. His hands are almost perished (we didn’t think we’d need gloves) and the cars at the next lock cottage are frozen over. Of course it’s still only 6am by the meridian and the sun has hardly got up yet.
We’ve decided on a long day today, to try to make up for some of the days lost, and we need to be at Clamecy by Monday if at all possible. Our target had been Vincelles (7 locks and 12 kms) but we decide to aim for Mailly (15 locks and 26 kms). This turns out to be easier than we thought on this stretch.
The scenery is fantastic. Passing Augy and the “speed basin” is not difficult (this is wide water and the “speed” is in fact for water skiers but there are none today) and we reach Bailly les Caves for our lunch stop. It is really beautiful here. The Caves (“caves” not caves) are closed but we walk with the dogs up through a path towards the vineyards and the dogs enjoy their freedom. We make a sandwich lunch before pressing on. We also have a bottle of St Bris for trying later on.
We pass Vincelles and Vincelottes where we had planned to overnight. Pretty villages but not much in the way of facilities so we are not too disappointed. May be we would have found more if we had stayed.
We pass the turn off, up the channel, to Vermenton. We would never have had time to visit Vermenton on this trip, but it is well recommended by many people. The channel here is meant to be difficult but seems very straightforward to us as we move over to the port side.
We pass the pretty little villages of St Pallaye and Pregilbert, and get to Mailly la Ville at about 6pm. Good moorings and free electricity. Aha! This time we only need our Universal connection. It’s a village rather than a town (but called la Ville as opposed to le Chateau). But it’s pleasant and lively. The boulangerie is open to 7pm. We buy half a loaf (as offered by the boulangere) and two beautiful raspberry tarts. We can get fresh bread tomorrow. They open at 7am even on a Sunday. A beautiful end to a successful day, so we enjoy a bit more of the lock keeper’s white.
Sunday 17th April
Glyn does his early morning chores again. He comes back with the dogs and his hands are really freezing again. We hadn’t planned for such cold mornings. Thank God the meteo says it is going to warm up. The mist over the canal gives a beautiful morning sensation and view, but best seen from inside the boat.
We had originally planned to get Clamecy today, over the border from Yonne into the Nievre, but decide to go a little less far, as far as Coulanges, just 23 kms and 11 locks. We are probably still travelling too fast, but concerned about making up time.
The mornings are short now. The locks are only open 9am – 12 noon. We pass the bends around Mailly le Chateau which is more impressive than we had thought. We lunch at Merry (sur Yonne) opposite the Saussois locks. Again this is very impressive and the moorings are fine. This is just a beautiful unspoilt spot.
We move on past Chatel Censoir and La Place which seemed less impressive than we had expected. The travelling lock keeper (covering 3-5 locks) now does several locks with us and Georges is really a nice and helpful guy. He thinks mooring at Coulanges could be difficult so goes ahead and scouts a place out for us. Coulanges is an OK place with a small restaurant but which we did not try. Easy walking for the dogs.
Ahead of us is our first “pont levee” (lifting bridge) at Pousseaux, and when we visited Clamecy by road one of the boat arrivals had told how impossible this bridge had been for them. So we use the evening dog walk to go up and see what it is like. We cannot fathom it out. This could take an hour to open. A young lad from the neighbourhood gives us advice but it is no better. There is a tight catch which halts the operation and makes every turn difficult. To remove it looks like taking off the safety mechanism. This will be fun in the morning.
Two boats are arriving from the opposite direction, one French, one German. The French jump out to open the bridge so we watch carefully. But they are defeated too. Then in five minutes a VNF (French waterways) man arrives. He explains that the brake sticks on. Just give it a bouf (bash) to start and then keep turning regularly. It works like a sweet dream. So we walk the dogs back, much more relaxed, have supper and go to bed.
Monday 18th April
After three quite long days this is going to be our day off. Just 9 kms and three locks into Clamecy and of course that pont levee. The “pont” levies quite beautifully. As we approach Clamecy the canal turns back to river and gives a really beautiful if somewhat slightly tricky reach of water. We set off at 9.30 and are moored easily at Clamecy at 11.30. As we move through the lock and into the mooring the town policeman is clearly waiting for us. We stay relaxed. What papers will he want? He watches intriguingly as we slowly reverse this strange English boat into the mooring. You are staying the night, he says. Water, showers, toilets, electricity are all available, but it is €6 per night. Where do we pay, we ask? You pay me, he says. Ah! That’s what he’s waiting for. Any way we get a proper receipt and he is really helpful. We ask him where we can buy a French flag. We have tried to buy one in Joigny, Migennes, to some extent in Auxerre and all points in between without success. The only advice from one lock keeper was to go to a football match! Even in France you can ask a policeman. He points us exactly in the right direction.
It is very hot at noon (as on the last visit) so we take the dogs for a walk along the tree lined canal (which we have just re-entered from the river through the Town lock) and then we take lunch in the shade on the boat. At 2.30 we go to the French flag shop and then do some general shopping. Monday is closing day and all the pharmacies but one are closed, just when we need something for sore and cracking lips.
Glyn collects his medical “ordonnance” and goes up to the LAM to discuss his blood test next morning. No. No. We can do it right now and give you the result by 5.00pm they now say. And it is all very fast and efficient (though not down to the 4 minutes the surgery in Malmesbury operates). The result is OK. They have found blood in the alcohol stream. So that’s one matter out of the way until we are back in England.
We explore the town some more. This really is a delightful place. Walk the dogs several times. Glyn washes off the roof of the boat (filthy from the journey over and the blasting in the boat yard) and does some painting while Linda makes supper. A really quiet delightful day. We finally feel we have arrived at what we came for.
Tuesday 19th April
Our day of rest is over but today a more reasonable target of Asnois, 14 kms and 7 locks. We are mainly on canal with stretches of river. Before setting off we bumped into a Flemish guy from Leuven who had spent five months walking to Santiago de Compostella and was now on his way home. He was walking into Clamecy while we were walking the dogs.
We stopped at Villiers sur Yonne for lunch, walked into the village to post some cards. But even the local Nivernais seemed lost here. We preferred Villiers sur Suize. Arriving back at the boat our Flemish friend was with us again. So we had a beer together and talked about the pilgrimage to Santiago. However he seemed now to be walking south rather north back to Belgium. He explained his route. We hope he will make it home and finds whatever he is looking for.
The afternoon is short. Just three kms and three locks to Asnois. Not a lot to say about this. The dogs had lots of walks. These locks were a bit more challenging. They are getting steeper. All of these about 2.5 metres but there is also 1.5 metre of lock wall above the water level. Linda has to climb these from our 0.6m above water level before we can get a rope on the bollards. Thank God she did some mountaineering training. Also the lock-keepers (now two working together) seem very keen to get on. They have sometimes closed the gates and opened the paddles before Linda is up the wall, let alone got a mooring rope on. We are learning some additional boating skills.
Wednesday 20th April
We were going to do Asnois to Marigny today (16 kms and 7 locks) but decide to extend it to try to get to Chitry just 3 kms and 3 locks further on. The countryside is now changing and the valley less wide. It is green and beautiful, with Charolais cows (and even more calves) everywhere. This is also really the timber country for which the Nivernais canal was built (floating wood down to Clamecy and then on to Paris). We lunch at Monceaux le Comte, walking into the village and finding an amazing local store for such a tiny village. We are though moored right next to a timber yard with a saw mill on the other side. On this occasion the driver doesn’t take a lunch break, making our lunch a little less than an idyll.
We are glad we decided not to stop at Marigny as there seems not much there. One more “pont levee” before Chitry. In order to drop Linda to operate the bridge and get back across a wide stretch of water Glyn decides to use the bow thrusters and - clunk, yes the pin has gone again. (Lesson: don’t use bow thrusters unless essential to combat wind or excessive bends.) Any way, then we turn into Chitry and this is an unexpected delightful if not very developed little port. Good moorings and little cafe.
We are helped to moor by Steve who used to work for Burgundy Boats but now runs the port plus some boat maintenance. He can replace the broken pin. Alas when replaced it seems to go again straightaway. This is more serious. There must be something jammed in the tube, but we can’t solve that without getting the boat out of the water. Hmmm! Long term thinking hat! Other than that, a very delightful overnight stay. However the people here are mainly English or Dutch, though the cafe is run by a French lady. A Dutch colleague is impressed that we know Rotterdam is in South Holland. But he enjoys correcting that the Hague is not the capital of the Netherlands, only the seat of government.
Thursday 21st April
We set off at 9.30am for Champs du Chene (Sardy) which will be our last stop before the lock flight to the summit. We get into our first lock when the lock keeper explains that he wants to bring another boat from downstream to do the next set of locks with us. It is two locks downstream so do we mind waiting an hour. We sit in the lock and try some emails. We could not get internet connection last night in Chitry, so is it any better here? We manage to read our emails and send a few new ones off, when just before we are ready the keeper is back and off we must go.
We are now two in a lock and given our length we fully occupy its length. We will do four locks together like this before lunch at Les Granges (a Locaboat hire base) near Marcilly. The locks are steep (about 2.5m each including one double) and we are at the front. We have to go close to the front gates to get the second boat in, and we are very low when the water starts to rush in. Linda has to climb the lock wall each time to rope to a bollard. This is very hard and challenging work. We are fighting to hold the boat, using the engine as well as ropes. It seems the French behind are thinking we are making a meal of this. There is also quite a strong wind whipping up. You might call this bracing or challenging but it is over the border from fun.
At the last lock before lunch the lock keeper suggest we let the French go in front for the afternoon. He also advises us to moor after the pontoons at les Granges as the water is very low. There is long wide expanse of water before Les Granges and the wind does not help with this.
As we approach the mooring we spot that they have pump-out. We ask the guy in charge if it is working. Certainly he says as long as you have the right connector. We moor alongside the pump-out. No. When they eventually make French pump out work it seems they have another gauge. Another little issue! Can we get converter? Another query but who for – Simon Evans (probably not); Spencer and Victoria (possibly); or Lee Sanitation (probably the best bet), though perhaps we’ll try to talk to someone at Decize first.
We take the dogs for a walk. This is not ideal for them either. We sit down for lunch, two very stressed people and at least one very stressed dog.
The French boat next to us starts to move so we fall in behind it. Suddenly this lock is much easier. The family on the French boat in front are now struggling holding their boat, though it is easier given their height and width. But they are protecting us.
At the next lock the guys and girls in front help take our ropes up so we have suddenly moved from stress to ease. We also chat together. They are a really nice group from Mulhouse in Alsace, but have to get their boat back to Baye by Friday, so they have to go somewhat further than us today. At the next lock they offer chocolate Easter bunnies to mark Easter time. Glyn never eats chocolate in Lent, but should he refuse. Linda says this small exception won’t matter. What a change from morning to afternoon. We arrive at Champs du Chene very relaxed and totally happy. Bon Voyage les Alsaciens!
Champs du Chene is a little disappointing as, despite our guide book, there are no facilities. The moorings are good and it is excellent for the Shady and Topsy. But no sign of grocery or restaurant. We need some groceries now. Perhaps the grocery and restaurant are in the village so we walk there. A pleasant village but absolutely no life. We find the grocery. Very definitely closed and up for sale, but looking like no-one would ever buy it.
Linda was looking forward to a night out without cooking this evening. No restaurant either. Finally we meet some farm workers on a tractor. Is there a restaurant around here? Definitely not. What about Epiry? Oh yes, but the road is long and winding.
We decide to have supper on the boat and to enjoy the countryside walking the dogs. It is very delightful countryside. Linda seems inspired tonight. Endives in a cream sauce to start. Boeuf bourguignon afterwards. But back to the yoghourts (which are now running low) for pudding. Who needs restaurants?
A couple of boats have now moored behind us, both going downstream. All very friendly, and telling us we are in for a delight tomorrow.
Friday 22nd April (Good Friday)
We start at 9am. 11 locks to do by lunchtime and then five after and three tunnels to reach the summit at Baye. Francois joins us who will be our lock-keeper to the summit. He suggests we stop at Lock 6 (as indeed we planned) for lunch where J-J, a retired eclusier has a little salon du the.
Francois is fantastic. He always takes our ropes. Linda’s via the boat hook, and he laughs on the couple of occasions when Glyn’s Thames-trained rope throwing fails to make the height of these locks. He wants to speak English, as he really wants to improve his English (doesn’t help our French of course). He wasn’t sure whether we were Australian as our red duster (sorry Ensign) looks more like the Australian than the British flag. Explain the different colours!
We get to Lock 6 just after 11.30? Is that credible? The morning seemed to fly by. But the scenery is also amazing. Technically this flight is not as impressive as Devizes perhaps, but the scenery as we mount the gorge is absolutely fantastic. Huge mature trees of all descriptions with leaves now well out. Warm and sunny but beautiful shade. Flora and fauna of all descriptions. As we finally pass locks 7 and 8 we turn full into the gorge. Who said today would be a treat. How could they be so wrong? This is Elysium, Paradise Regained – peaceful, beautiful, vibrant! Everyone should see this place once in their lives, but so few will.
We walk the dogs to the top, and come back and have a beer at the Salon du The (perfidious English). J-J and his companion are delightful. They have called their place Isfahan. Glyn is limping a little and jokes that the bad news is that “Timur la Laime” has arrived. Is Tamburlaine known so much in France, or the sad connection of this Mongol chief with Isfahan? Any way it makes some conversation.
We have lunch and spend two hours here. Wish we could spend two days.
Alas 1.30pm arrives and J-J explains that Francois has been called away so he (retired or not) will see us to the top. We say how Francois and others have been so good. J-J smiles, “ouais, c’est un bon equipe”.
We continue slowly but all too quickly to the top.
Elysium!
Once at the top we have to pass through three tunnels, 212, 268, and 758 metres respectively. The first are no longer than English ones already done. The third is not difficult with a 5 metre wide channel. The approach, probably a kilometre itself, which has to be done slowly, is again beautiful beyond belief like the gorge below. Elysium? Nirvana? Just that.
We come out into a wide bay and see the hire boats at Baye, and the Etangs de Baye and de Vaux beyond. They are beautiful in their own way, but look a weak reflection after what we have just passed through. Can we turn around and go back?
No! We have to progress. Remember Decize and the beautiful Briare are our objectives. Not much at Baye and an epicerie (grocery) is promised at Bazolles just a short distance and two locks down. So we carry on.
The moorings at Bazolles are again disappointing, with no facilities and worse we cannot get close enough to the side we are supposed to moor, with low water and big rocks. After 45 minutes we give up and moor on the other side, whether we are supposed to or not.
Linda goes into the village while Glyn feeds and walks the dogs. The village is lively enough and the boulangerie / epicerie provides the key things we need. The walks here are lovely, but we just want to dream about the gorge.
A peaceful evening. Tomorrow we begin the descent to Decize.
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