Northbound to the Seine

Monday-Wednesday 5-7 September (Getting Going Again)

Well here we back on the water again. (Oh! No, we hear you cry.)  We managed to leave England finally on Monday the 5^th after waiting ten days for a replacement chip in our ABS system.  Well at least it allowed us to see a lot more of Alfie, and his first visits to Malmesbury Carnival and Corston Fete. 

Alfie with Linda August

So Monday was picking up the car, packing and heading for Portsmouth.  We always take the dogs for a walk on Portsdown Hill before we board the ferry.  They need it, and Linda enjoys the memories of some of her childhood here.  But it’s dark now by 8.30pm here.  The view over the lights of Portsmouth is however tremendously impressive.

Tuesday:  We escape the boat at Caen by 7.00am and drive our usual gentle route through the back roads of Normandy and the Centre, crossing Calvados, Orne, Eure-et-Loir and the full-length of the Loiret from north-west to south-east.  We stop early at Falaise to walk the dogs over farmland, and mid-journey at Belleme to have a beautiful walk through the forest.  We make Briare before 1pm.

The rest of Tuesday is spent organising some fuel and early start on Wednesday, as well as the usual plug-in and checks on engine, electricity, amenities, etc.  That just leaves time to do some “provisioning” (we seem to love that word now!) and be all ready for tomorrow.  We are five days late, so we need to move.

Walking the dogs after nightfall gives that ever lovely picture of Briare.  The walk in Malmesbury has its beautiful attractions too, but it seems 5 degrees warmer here.

Wednesday:  It was meant to be an early start but it’s not light until 7am.  The dogs have a hurried half-hour walk before we finish some final chores.  Linda goes to the bakers, and on the way finds a totally new greengrocer.  It turns out he has only opened today, and at 8am she is his very first customer ever.  His produce looks very good and well laid out.  Pity we stocked up most things yesterday.  But his potatoes are very good, and Linda gets a complimentary melon for being his first customer ever.  We’ll certainly go back again on our return.

Today we are going to Rogny, northwards up the Canal de Briare, and then onwards to the Loing to join the Seine just upstream from Fontainebleau.  History lesson.  The Briare is France’s oldest canal begun around 1600 AD under Henri IV, to join the Loire and the Seine basins, so that goods from the Loire estuary could be taken to Paris.  Henri IV was probably France’s best ever king, but known only in England for “Paris is worth a mass” and possibly the Edict of Nantes.  Like Henry VII in England he came from foreign parts (just) and finally managed to unite the country after years of fratricide, setting the foundations for a glorious period under his grandchild (Louis XIV from Henri IV and Elizabeth I from Henry VII).  Unlike Henry VII, however, Henri IV was a little less austere.  His downfall was women (too many of them).  Men should learn never to mix it with women, especially Medici women.  Hope we got that right.  Here endeth the lesson.

Today we do 23 kms, plus 16 locks – 6 up to Ouzouer-sur-Trezee where the canal follows the path of the Trezee river, and then another 4 to the summit at Gazonne, with gorgeous lakes all around which the support canal water system.  Then finally down 6 locks at Rogny-les-Sept-Ecluses, to join the path of the river Loing as it drops towards the Seine.  There were seven locks in a formidable staircase when the canal was first built (hence the name), but this allowed no passing places and thus was a major hold-up to traffic.  The original flight was very impressive but the present arrangement also very enjoyable.

The Original "Sept Ecluses" at Rogny

We have never passed this way before.  The scenery is varied and interesting, and not as flat as some of that further south.  From the canal Ouzouer is very beautiful village, and we regret that we don’t have time to stop.  Next time, sans doute. 

A View of Ouzouer-sur-Trezee from the Canal

Rogny looks a very interesting town too, not just the former “sept ecluses”, but the moorings are deep and metallic (and they charge for them, and for water and electricity too though we need neither).  We decide to give that a miss.  Maybe next time. So we motor a further 3kms up to the very quiet but lovely village of Dammarie-sur-Loing.  The scenery is in some ways reminiscent of parts of the Kennet and Avon canal, as we wander along the boundaries of the Loiret and Yonne departments, now in Burgundy, now back in the Centre.

We are moored by 4.30pm at a very beautiful spot where the dogs can run free, there is wonderful woodland nearby, the sun is shining, and at least here all is right with the world.  Glyn falls into a deep sleep so Linda has to walk the dogs.  But he wakes in time for his supper, and for a quiet stroll around the village.

Thursday 8^th September (Chatillon-Coligny and the Path of the upper Loing)

Today is essentially making sure we progress towards Montargis and the Seine along the path of the river Loing but staying on the Canal de Briare.  Here the Loing is descending quickly from its upper reaches.  We pass twelve locks dropping a total of 45 metres (about 148 feet) with an average depth of 3.76m (12’4”) , with the shallowest 3.24m (10’ 8”) at Chatillon-Coligny and the deepest 5.12m (16’ 10”) at Montbouy.  As we are descending getting our mooring ropes on at the tops of the locks is easy.  Managing them so that we can get them off at the bottom of the lock takes just a little more care and attention  - especially when a certain two-year old four-legged friend, who thinks she’s the perfect crew, tries to dance all over them.

It wasn’t a bad journey.  We set off just before 9am and moored at 4pm, with an hour for lunch Chatillon-Coligny.  This is very pleasant countryside, with wide avenues, a wide variety of different trees and forestation, and the occasional village, villa or gallo-roman remains.

The morning part of the journey was from Dammarie to Chatillon with six locks over just 6 kms so it took much time than to manage those.  For this part we were joined by Claus and Gret on the Mille from Copenhagen, which helped while the time away, especially when we had to wait 20 minutes in one lock for an upcoming cruiser.  Claus and Gret have been cruising France, Belgium, the Mosel, the Rhein, the Rhone and the Med for six years so they could tell us quite a bit about various waterways.  They winter in Paris (and Copenhagen) and spend every summer on the waterways.  Alas they are no fans of the Burgundy Canal which we said was our next major exploration.  If you like trees and fields, they say, it’s great, but no towns and hardly any villages.  Be prepared!

Claus and Gret stop off at Chatillon-Coligny where they hope to spend a couple a days.  They advise on some of its better points. They clearly like it here, and it is beautifully set out where the canal passes through.  They should have loved Briare but had two bikes stolen there so are not such fans. We only have an hour, including eating and walking the dogs, but it’s very useful advice for our return.  And the lady at the halte nautique / tourist office is equally friendly and helpful. 

The Bridge over the Canal at Chatillon-Coligny

From Chatillon we pass the locks at Lepinoy and Montbouy, where we had originally planned to finish the day, but it is too early.  The locks up to Chatillon are mechanised and with team work with the Danes and very organised lockkeepers we have passed them very quickly.  These next two locks are manual, but nevertheless the lockkeeper is ready and we move through sleekly.  The final four locks are mechanised.  But now we are alone, and the very friendly but deep-throated lockkeeper confides that we will be his only customers this afternoon.  He is very efficient but still finds time to chat, to admire and play with the dogs, and tell how beautiful and quiet the moorings are here, against the hustle bustle of Montargis.

A lovely day.  It several times it threatens to rain but never does.  And during the afternoon it actually gets quite warm.  All ready for Montargis and the Canal de Loing tomorrow.

Friday 9^th September (Montargis and the Loing Navigation)

Today was to have been just a travelling day, but it turned out much more pleasant than we thought.  The weather wasn’t particularly good but quite warm and no rain.  Grey and “lourd” as the French would say.  We set off from Conflans in a slightly coolish atmosphere, with a very friendly eclusieuse to see on us our way, who spoke good English and was very taken by the “best ‘bergers’ which French shepherds like most”, even after Topsy treated her van as though it was a stray sheep. 

The journey then took us through Montargis which is very pleasant on the south side, though the works for the new railway bridge for the TGV are less endearing than the fast train service will be.  The centre of the town along the canal is also very pretty.  It reminded us a little of Reading, though the town itself is not so big, and more personal and attractive.  It is by-the-way that Montargis is also twinned with Crowborough in Sussex which coincidentally is where we were married just 41 years and 4 days ago.  It can’t really be that long.

Approaching Montargis by Canal

The north side of Montargis along Châlette-sur-Loing is again more industrial, interesting in some ways, but somewhere to pass through.  This brings us to the end of the Canal de Briare and, turning off before the sadly disused Canal d’Orleans, we move on to the Canal de Loing.

Whereas the Briare followed the downhill stream of the upper Loing, the Loing canal itself is more a navigation along the river proper.  It is quite wide but to us it was surprisingly pretty, with interesting houses all along the 3kms to Cepoy.  Cepoy itself is a lovely little village with the tree-lined canal overflowing with fallen conkers (very hard conkers – if only we could get back to Seagry).  We were told that the lock was open until 12.30pm but misinformed, so we nestled in the lock itself for lunch, walked the dogs along “conker avenue” and at 1.00pm were joined by a very jovial lockkeeper to see us on our way.

In the Lock at Cepoy

Conker Alley at Cepoy

We then had just 8 kms and three locks to Nargis, our destination for the day.  We made it by 3pm.  Again this part of the canal was very beautiful and peaceful, with locks bedecked with flowers and/or multi-coloured flags.  Since Chatillon we have travelled on our own, and only passed two other boats coming the other way.  It is September now, but very sad that this canal is so under-used.  We remarked upon this to the engineer / foreman who acted as our “eclusier” through the two locks at Retourné and Nargis.  He was saddened too.  He added that the traffic had been very poor all year.  People go to the Briare because they have heard of its prettiness and interest (which is certainly there) but this part has few pleasure and hire boats, he says.  It is their loss and our gain, but such a pity that this not enjoyed by more people. 

We moor up at Nargis, but have to use a sloping quay.  In preparation for these we have provided ourselves since our last journey with weighted zigzag fenders to keep safely off the stone sloping walls.  We put them to work, and are very chuffed that our home-made solution works extremely well.  We then drill some fixing holes in the old gangplank to hold it firmly to the land side, so we do not lose it, while tied boat-side firmly to one of the holding points.  This too works a treat (though there no speeding hire boats to test it out) with a firm gangplank which even the dogs use with supreme confidence.

This has turned out a much more enjoyable day than we expected.  We walk the dogs and then visit the village.  It has a small but very pleasant centre with a good epicerie and a seemingly excellent baker.  But we’ll test that out tomorrow.

Saturday 10^th September (Through Nemours to the Seine Approaches)

The baker was indeed very good, and today was the return of summer. Sun, sun, sun, and the temperature reached 31^o.  The journey today is from Nargis past Souppes-de-Loing and then through Nemours to Epizy where we will overnight before Moret and the Seine.

The day is wonderful but the scenery less so.  The environs of Souppes-de-Loing are industrial and uninspiring.  Similarly the approach to Nemours doesn’t leave much to write home about.  We need a mooring for lunch and have to use a demolished warehouse site.  It is adequate for our purposes and in fairness the view over the other side of the canal is a reasonable picture of trees, but that is the only spot of beauty in an otherwise dreary scenery.

After lunch we pass through the final lock at Nemours and turn left to descend to the Loing River proper.  This is more inspiring, over 50 metres wide, and a real sense of major river. We could turn right into the town where maybe the riverfront also makes it nicer, and maybe we will another day.  However the stretch of the Loing doesn’t last more than a kilometre where an awkward and badly signposted turn takes back on the navigation, leaving the Loing ahead which looks liking a mixture of a duck pond and a silted mill reach.  In fairness we see glimpses of it later where it runs along the canal which are less depressing, but nevertheless certainly not poetic.

The canal here is very pleasant especially in the sunshine with the avenues of trees just beginning to change their colours.  We finally moor just upstream of the lock at Epizy, a nice quiet spot with a relaxed and friendly lock-keeper even if that cannot be said of his chained-up Doberman.  A beautifully sunny day.  Nothing challenging, but at the end for some unknown reason we both feel very tired and have a good late afternoon nap before a lazy evening.

Well, that’s the Canals de Briare and de Loing at least on this occasion.  Tomorrow the Seine.  

The Home Stretch Again 5-14 August)

Moored up at Herry

Friday 5 August (La Floroine and the Loire Walks at Ménétréol)

So this morning we left Herry with Topsy give a little verbal retaliation to the bigger dogs who frightened her.  Today is a short cruise.  This weekend we are really going to be lazy.  We are only going as far Ménétréol-sous-Sancerre which is 14 kms and 3 locks.  It is quite easy and we get to Ménétréol just before 12 noon.  At the last lock the keeper says there are plenty of spaces there, but in fact we took the last one.  We pooped into the local restaurant – La Floroine – and booked a table for the evening, and then take a walk towards Sancerre.

A lazy afternoon, reading, fiddling, actually looking around the village which is full of old narrow alleys with a huge railway viaduct at the end.  Isn’t it intriguing?  We have been here a few times before now, but never wandered around the village.

In the early evening we take a long walk towards the Loire to see if we find the river itself.  It’s not far away.  It is so beautiful wandering down local pathways, across fields (whether we have a right of way or not the farmers seems not to worry and always wave “bonjour”), past allotments, alongside woods.  But we never quite get to the Loire.  So we wander back, feed and settle the dogs, and have our second meal out in three days.

We always think of this of a cafe rather than a restaurant, but for some reason order a fuller meal.  Are we just in a good mood or is the food very good tonight?  Foie gras salad or friteurs, ham with herbs or a saignant steak, peach clafoutis or a simple crème caramel, all delectable.  But what is really enjoyable here is the simple ambience sitting outside alongside the canal and enjoying the French summer evening.

Ménétréol at Dusk

Saturday 6 August (Sous la Pluie)

Another easy day, just 18kms and three locks to Léré.  Not too bad in the early morning as we take a walk back beyond the Thauvenay lock through a farm selling goat’s cheese include the local speciality crottins de Chavignol.  Not sure whether we are trespassing again, but the lady farmer, returning with her bread at 7.30 in the morning doesn’t seem to mind, and waves a friendly greeting.

We set off just after 8.00 but the weather is changing and clouds gathering.  Within a quarter of an hour the rain is very steady.  We are cruising for about 3½ hours under solid rain.  Well, is there anything better to do when it’s raining like this?  It’s alright for Glyn under the canopy on the back deck, but Linda, getting out to help the lockkeeper at Bannay, gets soaked in about 5 minutes flat.  Well, these are the joys of boating!

But by the time we moor up at Léré the rain is breaking and the sun coming out.  We moor alongside the “Sept-a-Huit” cruised by Roger and Lilyane Pizzighalli, who are really friendly, and help plug in to the free electricity supply, as well as a moor using their bollards.   They base their boat at Baye at the summit of the Nivernais Canal, and are down here for a few weeks.  They sensibly are not cruising every day, and staying here for a week or so.

We take a leaf out of their book and just relax as the weather improves during the afternoon – snooze, read, walk, eat and then just repeat the process.

 The Lock at les Houards

  

Sunday 7 August (Au Soleil at Léré)

We aren’t going anywhere today.  A bit of cleaning and a bit more touch-up pointing.  Various walks, but especially walking back to the Houards lock which must be one the prettiest and well-kept flowered lock in France.  And of course bread and cakes from the Lys d’Or.  We have a pizza in the town cafe in the evening.  We skipped this cafe the last few times we have passed and feel it deserves some support.  A very large extended family of a dozen or so also decide to join us, but the menu has no meat, and just as the cafe is gearing up for such a crowd on a Sunday evening, they decide not to stay.  The cafe is quiet, but from about 8.30 it starts to do a roaring take-away trade with.

Monday 8 August (Return to the Loiret with Philippe, Marcelle and Batiste)

A big day today.  This is just the run home to Briare, but Philippe and Marcelle (Margot) and their grandson Batiste are joining us.  A longish day too with 28 kms, but only 2 locks plus of course the three port locks into Briare.

We walk the dogs early all the way back les Houards, passing some other boaters walking dogs on the way.  They seem to do shorter walks than we do.

Philippe, Marcelle and Batiste arrive just before 0900, with vegetables, fruit and wine.  We will be well-stocked for the week.  The day is cloudy but no rain.  We pass by Belleville and at Beaulieu Philippe shows where they once moored on a trip down here.  We also discover that he was born just over the river in the Nievre.  We glide on up to l’Etang where the old canal veers off to the Chatillon crossing of the Loire.  It is fascinating looking at the parallel canal and hearing the old history from real locals.  Meanwhile Batiste seems fascinated by the waterway and the boat, and has made a lifelong friend in Shady, though he is less sure about Tops, who herself remains uncertain and protective.

The breeze begins get up but we are well protected from the east.  However as we approach Chatillon and look for moorings for lunch the tree cover reduces.  Hoving to port to talk to talk to some boatyard workers about where we can moor, we realise that pulling off from sideways on into the wind is no easy manoeuvre.  Of course we can cruise without bow thrusters, but in situations like this, wow, they would be handy.  We use the old-fashioned ways of feet and bargepoles, and it is not too difficult (even if it takes three attempts).  WE find a good mooring.  It says we have to pay at the Capitainerie, but it is lunchtime and no-one is to be found.

We take a bit of a walk and go for lunch at the Vieux Port.  Lunch is “formule”, good but not especially exciting.  But it gives us back our energy.  So we set off for the stretch along St Firmin towards the Pont Canal.  We pass the chateau at St Firmin.  Philippe and Marcelle have danced for the old countess who from time to time lays on lavish parties.  It is intriguing how the old aristocracy still holds on in France, as quaint as anything the British can offer.

We get to the Pont Canal.  Alas another boat has just entered from the other end, so we will have to wait 10-15 minutes.  Except the navigating of this boat seems very original.  They sway from side like a true sailor after a night on shore!  They use feet to push from the side.  Are there just very new at this, just larking about, or is there is some other reason?  Any way eventually they complete the 700 metres and we can begin our crossing.

It is beautiful day and as we have turned into the canal the wind turns to a head wind which is much less problematic than when it is broadsides.  We take a slow straight line across the aqueduct.  Lots of people are out walking, and Philippe and Marcelle pass several friends and acquaintances just a little surprised to see them on a funny English narrow boat.

And so we cruise on up the final 3 kms of the Canal Lateral and then turn into the Canal de Briare (France’s oldest canal started around 1600 AD in the time of Henri IV) and just the three locks down to home.  Philippe and Batiste note how deep the first lock is.  But we have to descend from the height of the Pont Canal some 12 metres above the Loire, down to the level of the river itself.

It’s been a great day, with great company.  After mooring we finish with a glass of bubbly and cake each from Léré.   We give a glass to Batiste and take a photo for his mum.  She may not be too impressed, but we can assure her it was only in fun.

And then back in the car to drive all the way back to Léré to retrieve Philippe and Marcelle’s car.  It is sad to leave them, but we will see them again later in the week.

Before we return we have a long chat with Roget and Lilyane on the Sept-a-Huit, and they present Linda with a cap from Bryony’s restaurant on the Canal de Bourgogne, after we say we are hoping to get on to the Bourgogne in September (and they note that Linda’s second name is Bryony).  We all hope to meet up again sometime on the Nivernais.

And since we left this morning who has moored up just along from where we were, but Gail and Andrew on the Celine.  Gail is translating something for the DBA magazine, but translating from colloquial French with lots of local idioms is never easy.  Another long chat and then back across the Loire at Belleville and down through Bonny-sur-Loire back to Briare.

Batiste admiring the scenery

 ..... and then enjoying a cake  

Tuesday 9 to Sunday 14 August (Great to Be Among Friends)

The rest of the week is in port, as we tidy up and prepare to leave the boat for 2½ weeks in England.   Well not quite in port!  On Tuesday evening we have dinner with Pascal and Nicole Pinon and meet Lena their daughter and her friend Mathieu.  We are very well fed and watered.  This was a really enjoyable chatterbox evening.  We just hope Glyn didn’t talk too much.  On Thursday we have lunch with Martine Renard at Bonny, and also meet Ghyslaine and Gerry Ball.  Ghyslaine is very much local but has worked in England a lot and Gerry comes from Nuneaton.  Another Franco-British entente cordiale.  No wonder when we all eat so well in France.  We talk about links with English villages.  And on Friday we are invited out again to Philippe and Marcelle at Coullons where the dogs can run in their very large garden and around the “etang” (more a lake than a pond).  We watch the boys fishing, have a lovely supper with the family, and Philippe has cut up some logs for burning in our wood stove over the winter.  We just don’t deserve such friends, but it wonderful to have them. And so back to England.  But we hope to be back here again in early September.

Marcelle assisting the fishermen

The Pont de Rialto - End of the Journey at Briare

Map and Boat Card

By the way, you might find it useful to see a map of the canals we are covering with these trips in 2011.

And also, here is our "boat card" if ever you want to get in touch!

Lazing Around and Bypassing Nevers

Sunday 31 July (Missing King Alfred / Ice Cream and Basil at Fleury)

It’s Sunday morning and from here on in forget the rushing to and fro, we are going to laze, enjoy the sun, travel slowly, enjoy the food, enjoy the wine, and enjoy the people.

But it’s only 6.30am and already Topsy is being lively.  She is yapping.  Not usually her.  Then we hear running water.  Running water and telephones – why will she always bark at them.  But there is no running water on the boat.  Where is it coming from?  We slide open a curtain and see that on the boat opposite the man is washing his boat (yes at 6.30am on a Sunday morning) and hosing it down from the drinking water supply.

It’s a free country, but.....  We are minded to remind him that ever since King Alfred’s time an Englishman is entitled to reasonable peace and quiet between 11pm and 7am.  But we are in France and he is a Fleming.  Alas King Alfred did not get to Belgium, only John of Gaunt.  Another failing to lay at John of Gaunt’s door.  But maybe it’s not history but sociology we should take note of!  Perhaps he is not really washing his boat.  As with the man washing his car in the rain, this is not boat washing, but “uxorplacation”.  His wife kicked him out of bed at 6am, and what else is there to do?

So today we have an early start.  The dogs have a good long walk, but even when we are back at 8am he is still washing his boat.  He must have done something really bad.

So we have a lazy breakfast, do some shopping at 9am and set off slowly at nearly 10.

Only a short distance today, and only two locks.  And somewhere along here on the way down the canal the lockkeeper sold us beautiful courgettes.  We must get some more.  At the first lock the lockkeeper says not he, try the next one along.  But the next is cared for by a pre-shaving student who has probably never tended a garden in his life.  In it we are joined by a second boat, visitors from the Czech Republic. 

We reach Fleury before midday, have a beer, before walking the dogs and a quiet lunch.   Our Czech friends also stop for a beer and light lunch, and start to move off at about 12.15.  The lock is only 5 minutes away, we say, and you can’t get through until 1pm.  They stop, chat a little in our both stumbling German, and decide to have a sunbathe.  In fact they don’t leave until 1.45pm.  That’s right.  It’s Sunday in France and the sun is shining.

It is getting quite hot now, so we treat ourselves to an ice cream each from the summertime café during a gentle post-lunch read and snooze.  At 4pm Glyn ambles along to the next lock to book a passage for 9am tomorrow morning.  Fine says the lockkeeper, and you can walk across my “no entry” passerelle any time.  Glyn apologises, and they laugh.  Do you need any vegetables? He asks.  Ah! You are the courgette man?  Certainly, you want courgettes?   Can we get some tomorrow:  Alas no.  It is his day off tomorrow and he must work in his garden because of the storms on Tuesday (take note – storms on Tuesday).  I’ll be back in mo, says Glyn.  So he ambles back to the boat, and Linda and the dogs all go with him back to the lock.

The lockkeeper is effusive.   Courgettes, lettuce, but sadly we do not need tomatoes.  His are beautiful but we bought lots yesterday.  Do you want any parsley, he says.  Ah, no, but do you have any fresh basil?  Basil! Basil? He says.  Of course.  How much do you want?  And he gives Linda a tour of his extended garden.  He really has made this a wonderland.  He is very friendly.  If ever you are passing this way again just call in, he says, I’m usually here.  And the price we ask?  Whatever you think, he says.

Monday 1 August (By-Passing Nevers and The Beauty of Guetin)

The next day we set off early.  We were going to visit Nevers, but after several discussions decide against.  It is not a pleasant walk from the port to the town, although the town is magnificent.  And the port is not very good at all for the dogs.  A day on board is not very fair on them.  So we decide we will go straight on to Guetin.

After the first lock we are joined by our Flemish friends from Gannay.  We are still a little peeved, but they are pleasant and friendly as we shout from boat to boat in the lock.  Maybe we were having a bad day on Saturday.  The journey up to Nevers is peaceful and beautiful.  The Flemings turn off into Nevers, and we carry on gently past Plagny, mourning our lost mooring pin.  Then the grind past Pont Carreau, rewarded as we reach the open spaces and the aqueduct over the Allier at Guetin.  It is a beautiful day today.

Both dogs are on the rear deck looking out as we cross the aqueduct.  Guetin is busy.  People are swimming in the river.  Lots of gongoozlers watch us cross the aqueduct and descend into the two deep locks.  One young lady seems smitten, especially with the dogs.  She videos our every move from entering the aqueduct until we exit the second lock.  What will she do with it?

The moorings and the peace at Guetin are wonderful.  Wide open spaces, and walks in all directions, the Lateral, the Allier and the disused but beautiful Lorrain canal.

We just snuggle in and moor, a couple from Great Yarmouth in front of us, and later the Czechs behind.

The dogs love this – walks, walks, walks.

Tuesday 2 August (Donner und Blitzen at Cours-les-Barres)

A much lazier day today, one lock and 9 kms.   We arrive at Cours-les-Barres before lunch.  A good space to moor on rings, with some lively Brits and Aussies on one side, with very quiet French on the other.  Our French neighbours have a lovely husky but they are very precious about it.  It has been bitten three times they explain and is very nervous.  Can you ensure your dogs never come near him, they ask, and are locked on the boat when we take ours out.  That is very sad.

We explore the quiet village again, and note that the restaurant at La Mole is still offering transport, but decide we might try the new cafe in the village.  We need to use their loos before we go to bed!  In fact it will be the first time we have eaten in a restaurant since we arrived (mind you, we have been treated to some excellent meals elsewhere, at Gien, Briare, and Decize.

What a delight.  What is sad is that there are only us and a German family of four from Berlin.  The service is very friendly, the choice of menu excellent, and the food to match.  We were only going to have one or two courses but do the menu.  Linda has pintadeau (guinea fowl) and Glyn has steak tartar (you know it’s “cru”, the waitress checks).  Linda has an excellent salmon and prawn salad to start, and Glyn a goat’s cheese and tomato pesto.    Why is this place not fuller?

We take the dogs for their late night walk and notice the thick black clouds darken.  We recall the Fleury eclusier’s warning.  How wrong he had had been.  Today has been fantastic weather.

Well, it’s not over yet.  We retire to bed just after 11pm.  At 11.30 the sky seems eternally alight with sheet lightning.  The tall trees opposite are almost touching the ground bent in the gale force wind.  The thunder crashes. And then it rains, rains, rains.  It thunders on the roof.

The dogs are startled.  Shady in particular has never liked thunder and this is terrifying them.  Topsy is trying to be a little bit braver, but crawls under the table.  Shady needs cuddles and lots of re-assurance.  She was digging into the floor in her fright.  We manage to calm them.  After an hour the storm subsides.  Always take seriously what lockkeepers tell you!

Wednesday 3 August (A Quiet Visit to Beffes)

Today we only thought of going to Beffes – just 5 kms to Marseilles-les-Aubigny, two locks, 3 kms to Beffes and one lock there.  However we also need to do some work with the boat and need to find a quiet place to do it.  The weather is cloudy and cool, but reasonable given the overnight storm.  We have to wait a little at Aubigny for upstream traffic.  We are looking out for a suitable stopping point, but in doing so have to pass the moorings at Beffes.  We finally are able to find what we need.  Do we turn back to Beffes?  Maybe another time.  For certain another time.  Today we decide we plough on to Herry, where the moorings are excellent, and the dogs can laze in the sun under the trees.

We get there before lunch.  Our Berlin friends arrive, but only stay for lunch.  The Odin and Carrie Anne arrive, and need some help getting ropes onto what are now a limited number of bollards.   We walk and chat to the multiplicity of fishermen.  It is good here they say, but only between 6 and 9pm.  Were they joking?  At 8.55 they are all still there.  At 9.10 they are all gone.

This was otherwise a quiet day.  Glyn does some rubbing down and touch-up painting, and plays boys’ games with the flags.  Linda reads and reads and cooks.

Thursday 4 August (Staying on At Herry / Dogs Have Memories Too)

A nice long morning walk with the dogs.  But we pass a garden end we passed in May which has three quite boisterous and loud dogs – one Mutt which is particularly aggressive (though in fairness under the control of its owner) accompanied by a Doberman and an Alsatian.  They charge at Shady and Topsy.  Shady stands her ground and refuses to be intimidated, but is careful not to give offence.  Topsy is terrified, hangs back, cowers, and then speeds past faster than lightning as they are called back into their garden.

But otherwise it is a glorious morning.  We walk for a long time and come back another way.   The sun piercing the tall trees along the canal bank is just a beautiful sight. 

The Morning Sun through the Trees at Herry

What did we do the rest of the day?  We can’t remember, but it was beautiful and relaxing.

The next morning – STRIKE.  In the morning walk Topsy is not going anywhere near those three dogs again.  No, No, and No again.  After 20 minutes of cajoling we go another way, and then get ready to set off again.  As we pass by the dogs’ garden Topsy gives a round of barking at them, from the safety of the boat.

The Canal Lateral to Digoin

The Canal Lateral to Digoin

Monday 25 July - Gannay and Beaulon in the Rain

Today we set off on the upstream part of the CLL we have never done before.  The Meteo promised rain, and they have delivered on their promise.  In fairness they kept the weekend moderately fine and very warm.  But today it is certainly raining.  A good day for a business-like cruise.   We aim to get to Digoin where the CLL meets the Canal du Centre which then turns north to the Saone.   They say you can do it in two days, so that is our plan.  Our half-way target for today is Beaulon in the Allier.  This is 31 kms and 7 locks so should be about 7 hours cruising.

The rain is gentle as we walk the girls in the morning, but when we set off at 8.30 it is getting steadier.  The morning journey to Gannay is pretty straightforward if wet.  We keep up a steady pace.  As we were outside the port at Decize we were not lock-bound so could get ahead of all the boats from the port and the Loire which we know are also heading for Digoin, Roanne, the Saone, and the Rhone.  And some are worried that the Canal du Centre (critical to reach the Saone and points east and south) is now scheduled for closure from 17 August for lack of water.  Lack of water!!?  Maybe the last two weeks and today has changed that, but boaters are always cautious.  The scheduled “chomage” has not yet been de-listed.

We arrive at Gannay and moor up for a lunch break.  Martin from the China Bird greets us.  He and his wife have just moved from Brittany and have a bright new spick-and-span Widebeam quite similar to ours.  He advises that the chantier (boat yard) here is quite good but charges €50 just to look at any job.  He also says there is good walk going further along the canal for the dogs and is only about 3km.  We set off.  300 metres, forget 3km, and we and the dogs are all drenched to the skin.  Another 200m and we decide enough is enough.  Shady has already gone “en greve”! (We worry about her increasingly French tendencies, but what’s wrong with being French.)

We race back to the boat.  Dry off.  Eat some lunch.  And decide that in weather like this the best thing is to just keep moving.  So off we go and hit the next lock at Gailloux at 1pm.  The lockkeeper is young lady totally drenched so that her clothes all cling to her.  Yet she is so happy and friendly.  How can you be happy in weather like this?  She is marvellous.

We make Beaulon and moor up.  It is good mooring with free water and electricity.  We take the former but have no need of the latter.  The rain is easing off.  We realise that we had a discussion with Pauline and Peter on the Peppa at Decize when they discussed free water and moorings at Beaulon.  We thought they had meant Beaulieu (downstream) and we also mentioned Dampierre both of which have some blessings from being near major generation stations.  Now we realise that they were talking about Beaulon and Dompierre-sur-Besbre which are upstream.   No wonder we had a disjointed discussion.

It is very good here, and easy for the dogs to go out, with excellent walks.  But the town is quite a walk away, so we don’t get there.  They must be nice people though, to provide so much for visitors.  We are moored next to an American flagged boat called the “Mare”.   We ask whether it is horse or sea.  They are confused but explain it is Italian for “sea”.  Mare Nostrum, no doubt.

Tuesday 26 July - If You Don’t Get Soaked You Just Get Baked

An early morning walk with the girls and again we meet a snail collector (again with a liberal interpretation of “Burgundy”).  He is very pleased with his harvest this morning.  Clearly rain has some benefits.

It is lighter and brighter this morning, but still with some damp in the air.  It is 32 kms to Digoin and 8 locks.  We set off in pleasant, cool weather and moor up for lunch at Diou.  These are very good moorings and a lovely town / village.  The kids playing in the adjacent playground are very noisy but it is a beautiful and welcome noise. 

We push on from Diou and it starts to get warmer, and warmer, and warmer.  The trouble with the British is they are never satisfied.  But we have the wrong clothes on, so at each lock we slowly but further divest.

We see the Mare now ahead of us.  She seems too close to the bank, and struggling.   One of the female members of the crew is trying to push her off.  Oops!  Then again, in slow motion, we see her slowly lose her balance and end up in the nice, clean, fresh canal.

She finds her feet and climbs out.  But the boat is still stuck.  We offer a tow and a rope.  They say, thanks but offer their rope.  We say jokingly you know about salvage then!?  We certainly do they say. One of them worked with the salvage loss adjusters in the City of London, though they are doubtful we could claim salvage towing them off some mud in a French canal.  Any way after a couple of tugs in different directions we get her away.  Bon Voyage.

We reach Digoin at about 6pm, cross the Pont Canal over the Loire (shorter than at Briare, and not so spectacular, but still very attractive) and moor up just the other side.  We take the dogs for a short walk.  We decide to go back over the Pont Canal and Glyn thinks he can do it - it is not so high. But the railings on the side are very light and open.  Something distracts him, and suddenly the balance is gone.  We reverse slowly backwards. 

The walk along the Loire is excellent, and the view to the Pont Canal quite charming.  Isn’t it intriguing?  We take to this place quite quickly, whereas as Decize had the opposite effect.  But they are not that different.

After supper we stroll around the town, see the church.  A pleasant town, but very quiet.

The Pont Canal at Digoin

Wednesday 27 July - Digoin Has Its Charms

We wake up nicely in the morning.  Glyn does morning duties along the Loire, while Linda goes to find the Boulanger.  First one closed for the vacation (14^th to the 15^th as we say).  Second one closed for ever.  Third one under new management but not re-opening till mid-August.  Fourth one closed for ever.  Fifth one only a patisserie (whatever it says on the board).  BUT  ... they do know where there is a Boulanger.   Sixth one sells bread and croissants.

Have a lazy breakfast on the boat.  Some biggish boats going out to the Pont Canal.  After a while Linda thinks our boat is swaying.  Glyn is sure we are still moored, and last night he ensured the mooring pins were well-secured.  But we are moving more than we should.  On examination both mooring pins have held, but one has nudged out a little and then bent like a piece of willow.  It will hold, but not for long (and we have lost one mooring pin already).

So instead of sightseeing we head off to the chandlery.  “Un piquet d’amarrage” (our French improves daily).  No sorry, don’t stock them.  However we are able to buy three one-metre lengths of chain and with shackles we can fix these to the shuttering, and then secure the mooring ropes to them.  Our improvisation improves daily too.

After lunch we do get to explore the town.  There is an excellent model boat builder, who must do most of his work for museums and showrooms, but he does perfect models of old boats.  The other shops are largely boutiques or beauty shops.  Food shopping is clearly done out of town, but we find enough to keep us going.  There is a small cinema set back in an unlikely building.  The town reminds us a little of Chippenham, though the port on the Canal and the frontage to the Loire are more impressive than the Avon frontage in Chippenham. 

The Church at Digoin - A Different Architecture

We find a good kebab house.  That evening we have takeaway kebab and Linda wants “frites” – she hasn’t had any since she’s been in France.  We do spoil ourselves, don’t we?  In fact the meal, including baklava, is cheaper than if we cooked for ourselves.  And it is good.  The “frites” aren’t as good as Marie-Paule’s, and the Doner not quite as good as the “Marmaris” in Bath, but come on, those are impossibly high standards.  It is really good, and excellent value for money.

The Pont Canal at Digoin from the Loire

Thursday 28 July - Everyone should Visit Dompierre Once / Beaulon in the Mist

We are going to take three days back to Decize, just a little more slowly.  So today we think we will aim for Dompierre-sur-Besbre, just a few miles north of Diou.  It is off on a small branch canal which looks interesting, and the port offers all facilities including pump-out.  Worth a try.  The journey is pleasant and the canal is quite beautiful in many parts.  We pass Diou with its winding approaches and narrow little bridges.  We reach the Besbre lock.  Here, when we were coming upstream, an enormous transporter barge emerged and began to turn in the winding hole in front of the lock.  We thought it was going to Dompierre and couldn’t see how it could get through the tiny bridge to the branch.  It couldn’t of course, but was merely turning to reverse up to the grain silo to collect a cargo.  By the time we return two days later it has already left.

We turn into the branch and under the bridge.  But any prettiness before the bridge soon disappears afterwards.  For a few hundred yards we think we are in a ditchwater.  But it is navigable.  Then after a while it brightens and greens, and it is indeed a very pleasant backwater.  We very slowly nudge up and finally reach the very pretty port, hidden away from almost everybody.  Unfortunately it looks like there is nowhere for us to moor, or even, to turn.  However very slowly we turn around using some of the space between the short pontoons.  We identify the pump-out.  Linda manages to disembark and goes to the office.  As always the pump-out case has been installed, but there are no works.  A nice Lancastrian comes out to talk to us.  We can moor against the pontoons if we want, even though we overhang more than half.  Not really a good mooring.  He explains that French boats don’t have the capacity to hold their waste water so there is little value in pump-out stations. 

We head back down the branch, very slowly again.  It is actually a very pretty and quite different stretch of water.  We are really pleased we visited, even if unsuccessfully.  Anyone passing this way should pop in, just to see.

We look at our options and decide that Beaulon is our best bet for the night.  We arrive safe and sound.  There is mooring but no available bollards or rings.  We move in and consider how to secure our ropes.  “Got a problem?” says the guy from the next boat, who has hailed from Aberystwyth and heading back for the Rhine.  We explain about our shortage of mooring pins.  No problem - he lends us one.  Everything is right with the world.

Except for Shady.  She has a very bad night, and at 3am is making all sorts of uncomfortable noises.  We try to calm here but decide she just has to go out.  At 3.30am it is pitch black and there is thick mist everywhere, over the grass, over the banks and over the canal.  In fact, even with a good torch it is difficult to tell where the bank ends and the canal begins.  Also here all the electrical points are in one place.  So the various boats and camper vans which are plugged in for the night have electrical leads going in all directions.  One trip and God knows where you will end.  After 20 minutes wandering around in the dark and mist Glyn and the girls return.  Shady is eventually quieter, but not a good night.

Friday 29 July - Meeting Old Friends (Already) – Gannay in the Sun

Today is only short hop up (down) to Gannay.  We lie in till 7.30pm and the take the girls for a long walk.  We are in no rush.  We finally set off later but make Gannay by lunchtime.  The weather is warm and wonderful.

There is a good mooring available and someone has just moved off the quay and double-banked to leave space for someone like us.  As we moor up we realise it is Tony and Rose on the Anfra, double banked against Andrew on the Maja.  Andrew has had a new wheel house delivered this morning and Tony has helped him install it.  We natter, though Topsy is a bit defensive about anyone coming near her boat.

We wander over to the boat yard to see if they might have any mooring pins, in the process meting Dick and Mary on the Oribi who come from Devizes.  Isn’t it a small world? They know Malmesbury, and we explain that Glyn’s sister and brother-in-law also called Dick and Mary used to live at Bishops Cannings.  Dick says that back home he drives through Bishops Cannings every day.  Martin and family are however not at home on the China Bird.

At the boatyard they too don’t stock mooring pins, but advise us that the best thing is to get some builder’s stakes, which are very strong and easily obtained in a builder’s merchant.  There is one called Doras right by the canal in Decize which will have just what we want.

Alas tomorrow is Saturday and it will close by midday.  But later we bump into our American friends from Fleury and Decize (never did get their names and their boat seems to have no easily visible name) who say they think it stays open till 12.30pm.  So we’ll make a sprint for it in the morning.

Meanwhile a Belgian couple have arrived and say hello, but surprisingly their French is limited. They have moored right tight up to the lock, and then a second boat moors double alongside them.  There could be competition for the lock tomorrow.

Saturday 30 July - The Endearing Fraternity of the Canals

Wake up early and get everything done.  Go over and speak to the Belgian boat moored at the lock and explain we need to get to Decize by midday, and is there any possibility of our going through the lock before them.  No, no.  We have booked it for 9am they say.  Yes, we have too, we explain, but is there any chance we could go first?  No, we are ready to go, they explain.  There seems to be an understanding difficulty. So we give up and decide life is too short to fight over it.  But with luck we may still make it to Decize by 12. 

Both boats line up for the lock so we just wait, and then form a queue behind them so that the lockkeeper knows too that we want to get through. 

In fact he signals to us to enter, he thinks he can get all three in.  The second boat is quite short.  We are doubtful but it is nice of him to try.  And in fact we are all three just a fraction too long, so as last in we reverse out.  Linda gets off to help the lockkeeper with all the gates, so at least we speed things up.

We keep up our speed so follow the boats ahead through both the next two locks.  Linda every time helps the lockkeeper with the preceding boats to speed things up.  They are actually not going that fast, but not slow enough that we could overtake them.  At the third lock an upstream boat also further slows us up a little.

We reach the last lock.  The two boats ahead are just exiting, and it’s only 8 minutes to 12.  Up to now the lockkeepers have always let us through at this time, so....

Not this time. It’s Saturday and it looks like wife or girlfriend has already made lunch.  Crossed arms.  No way through this lock until after 1pm.

C’est la vie.  We reverse back to the mooring bollards for the lock.  They are not easy to access, and the water here is shallow.  But we manage to moor, and can get off with a gangplank.  We can have lunch and the girls can have a walk.  Shady is not too sure of the gangplank however, and takes a dip in the canal.  Not too serious.

After lunch we get ready for the lock.  A Dutch barge is coming up behind us. It’s Tony and Rose in the Anfra.  Can we both get in the lock?  They are 20 metres and we 18.  The locks are 38m long.  With a bit of diagonalling we might.  We go into the lock and as we enter we explain that we are 18 and the boat behind 20; we might both get in.  Long intake of breath.  I don’t think so, he says, and signals to the Anfra to stand back.  Isn’t it interesting that at the first lock the keeper was willing to try, but here he plays it straight by the book.

We won’t see Tony and Rose at Decize as they are going up the Nivernais, so we wave our goodbyes.

Arrive at Decize.  Our two predecessor friends have moored up on the port side, and are having their lunch.  Nothing more.  We have to admit we seethe a bit.  Maybe it was a linguistic misunderstanding.  Best to believe that than think he was just standing on his dignity.

Anyway, we do some shopping, use the launderette to dry our washing, and get on with life.  And we have moored on the far side of the canal, so the girls can wander freely.  We know there are bollards there.  We’ll just have to find bollards or rings all the way to Briare.