From the Marne through the Barrois (30 June – 5 July)

Go East Young Man

So Sunday 30 June and we set off for Lorraine and then the Rhine.  The Baturi goes off first.  We make our goodbyes to the Cirrus who are heading west and then north to Belgium.

We pass the entrance to the Canal Lateral a la Marne which they will take, which then wends its way down through Champagne country to the Seine.

The first part of Lorraine is called the Barrois.  In the days of monarchy the Duc du Lorraine was in fact Duc du Lorraine et de Bar.  Its main town – prefecture of the present day department of Meuse – is Bar-le-Duc.

The Lateral a la Marne Goes West, and we go East

We follow the Baturi.  At the first lock we agree it will be easier to lock separately and we hold back to let them go on (well, they are ahead).

We don’t see any other boats.  We are only doing 4 locks and 14 kms.  Our problem is that we need Linda ashore at each lock to fix ropes at the top of the quay which we cannot reach from the bottom of the lock.  But there is nowhere at two of the locks to put her ashore except  at the platforms which hold the sensors (“cellules”) which track our approach to the lock and operates it for us to enter.  In both cases the sensor system fails.  Is it co-incidence?  We will have to find out.

A Beautiful Quiet Spot on the Saulx

Its 1pm before we reach Bignicourt, which is a beautiful little spot.  A French boat the Fauvette is already moored there.  We introduce ourselves and say we are staying only one night, as are they.  They remember us (or at least the dogs) from Cours-les-Barres was it last year or the year before.  But we do not get any further information.  They have a boxer and sadly it is not possible for the dogs to run loose in the otherwise empty mooring area.

Moored at Bignicourt with the Fauvette moored behind us (014)

This is indeed a beautiful spot.  Behind us in the village an old chateau has been beautifully restored.

The Renovated Chateau at Bignicourt Looks Over the Halte Nautique

While on the other side the river Saulx runs parallel to the canal, already wide though shallow and rippling over the stones in gorgeous beauty.

While on the other side the Saulx makes it way down to the Marne

In the afternoon we check out Pargny which is our next planned stop just 6 kms and 4 locks.  We bump into Jim and Julia on the Baturi again, and now we suggest we are stalking them.  This is a pleasant spot too, with the added bonus of water and electricity though at a small charge.

Back at Bignicourt we discover walks nearby right out into the countryside away from the canal, and have a quiet relaxed evening.

And the Morning Sun Shines on a Beautiful Rustic Walk

And in the distance as we walk there are cattle gently taking their morning feed.

And Cattle Feeding in the Morning Mist

Mustn’t let the dogs too near to them.

Shady and Topsy enjoying their morning stroll (020)

So we set off at 9am for just the short distance to Pargny.  The weather is warm and pleasant.  Putting Linda ashore is not too problematic, but at two of the four locks the sensor system fails and we have to await the VNF man to operate the locks.  It takes till 1pm as a result.

Cargoes Do Make a Boat

As we moor a major cargo boat quite heavily laden goes by.  It reminds us that this was a major industrial highway, but now there are only occasionally industrials.  Pargny as a mooring is pleasant, also offering good opportunities for dog and person walking.

Moored at Pargny while a Heavily Laden Cargo Boat Plies Its Way

The restaurant near the mooring seems to be very popular.  As we arrive we see three gendarmerie cars and one police nationale.  We wonder if a raid is going on, but no, more likely this is just a good place for them to lunch. Unfortunately by the time we are moored it is too late to try it, and it is not open in the evening.

Three Gendarmerie and One Police Car Lunch Here: Or Are They Master Criminals (023)

From Pargny we will start some more serious work, with 12 locks and 13 kms to our next stop at Revigny.  

We ring the control centre at Bar-le-Duc to tell them that is our destination tomorrow.  We also mention that the mechanisms of 4 of the first seven locks have failed us.  Is there a system problem, is it something we are doing or is it just bad luck?  Just “mauvaise chance” he says, without enquiring what we might be doing to affect the system.

We pop along in the car to Revigny to have a look, and also to ask if we can park there.  Once again we are stalking the Baturi just ahead of us.  We call in at the VNF works.  They are very happy for us to park our car there.  We discuss the lock problem.  It really is just bad luck they say, though some thing (before us) has triggered some malfunctioning.  In their opinion our manoeuvring around the sensor might make it think there are two boats and so the gates might take a long time to close, but we are doing nothing to stop them opening.

We are relieved but decide that from tomorrow Linda will cycle between the locks, not because we might be affecting the sensors, but because we would be taking up so much time putting her ashore before each lock.

The weather is getting warmer and more humid, though at the start of the day it is quite pleasant.  After a couple of locks we pass yesterday’s cargo boat returning unladen.   It is surprising (or perhaps not) how much higher in the water these boats are when unloaded, but also how low in the water they must be when fully loaded.

Cargo Boat Returning Unladen:  She’s This High without her Cargo

As we approach Revigny there are too major Mittal Arcelior plants.  Not sure what they make here, but they dominate the town.  Was this the destination of our cargo boat?

Mittal Dominates the Skyline at Revigny

It is getting hotter and hotter.  There is little shade for Linda working the towpath and quayside.  But she sticks at womanfully, but is pleased to get in the shade when it is all over.

But the Workers work in the Poppies Too

The Maginot Line

Revigny-sur-Ornain.  We are now out of the Marne department in Champagne and in Meuse, Lorraine.  Lorraine, named after Lothair, grandson of Charlemagne and himself the third Holy Roman Emperor.  Can anyone remember this history better than us?  Everyone seemed to have nicknames (Charles the Bald, Charles the Fat, Peppin the Short, Louis the German) except poor old Lothair himself.  We recall he chose the Eastern Frank kingdom, no doubt to rule all the others, but with all those unruly relatives he ended up with not much at all.  Though at one time the Dukedom of Lorraine rivalled that of Burgundy, and of France itself, until overrun by those two unruly neighbours in various 15^th-17^th century wars.

We also discover that Revigny’s most famous son was André Maginot.  What we didn’t know was that he was Deputy (MP) for Bar-le-Duc in 1911 so even in the 1870-1918 period this part of the Meuse must have been still in France.  As Minister of War in the early ‘20s he set up his famous defensive line across eastern France, only for it later to be so easily circumvented.  A second thing we didn’t know was that he died in 1924, so long before his famous creation fell into disrepute.

We are joined at the moorings by a Belgian family, and again although we chat a lot somehow we don’t get names.  And later John and Izzie McDonald on the Spring Tide arrive, travelling fast from Leicester to points east.

We took to Revigny, but the weather became hotter and more oppressive.  Until that night it broke, and we had rain most of the night.  Luckily this made for a cool and refreshing morning, though more rain hovered over us.  The landscape opened out again, with a lovely rural aspect around the industrial towns.

From here the canal will follow the Ornain valley (more or less parallel with the Saulx) up to its summit, and then through the Meuse valley and over to the Moselle. We set off at first locking with the Spring Tide, but we quickly both agree it will be easier to lock separately so we let them speed ahead. 

 Wooded Hills after Revigny

Giving Bar-le-Duc a Pass

Our next stop is Fains-les-Sources, just short of Bar-le-Duc which is one of the former frontier posts of Lorraine.  The moorings here are all taken up by seemingly permanent residents.  However the Spring Tide is still there when we arrive.  One failed lock needing to call out the VNF, and a swing bridge closed until 12h30, and we have caught up with them. They move on when the bridge opens, and we are able to moor easily along the bank, the quay being fully occupied, but this is better for the dogs as they have a free area to run.  It is a little noisy, however, with freight trains nearby running all through the night.

Linda gets quite wet during the trip up.  The sudden showers are not long but quite fierce.  The little town of Fains-les-Sources is quite pleasant with an imposing hilltop church, a functional but pleasant Mairie, and even some small canals running through the streets.

The Church at Fains-les-Sources

And the Mairie “En Face”

Canals in the Streets

Glyn cycles back to get the car from Revigny and then we go forward to explore Bar-le-Duc and Tronville.  We get slightly lost in Bar-le-Duc (only we could do that).  The town centre is very nice, but the rest of the town seems higgledy-piggledy and worn down a bit.  Worse for us the small Port is wedged between a major road and an even more major railway line, with a road system at one end and industrial waste land at the other.  Nowhere conceivably to exercise the dogs.   We become wary of staying here, and although it will be a long hike we go on to look at the village of Tronville some 11 kms and 11 locks further on.

Here the moorings are delightful and rural, almost perfect.  A family from Bar-le-Duc have their boat here, but it has broken down.  Granddad has to make the 400 kms round trip to Dijon tomorrow to get the part he needs.  Grandma is staying on board to look after the boat, with one of the granddaughters.  They are pleased to chat away with us, and we say we are coming up with the boat tomorrow.   Then we decide it would be better to leave the car here tonight, so after 13 kms earlier in the afternoon, at 6pm Glyn will come back again and then cycle the 16kms back to Fains-les-Sources.  Come on, this is trivial in Tour de France terms.

“En Panne” at Tronville

While Glyn is doing this Linda has entertainment of her own.  Back at Fains-les-Sources a frogman has decided to dive around the canal opposite the boats.  What is he searching for?  No it turns out just a “pompier” doing some rescue exercises. 

 Frogman to the Rescue: No This is Fains-les-Sources

And now it’s Glyn’s turn to get soaking wet.  The rain holds off for 14 of the 16 kms back from Tronville, and then just showers him to be soaked through along the last pound.

So Thursday morning we set off for the 15 locks to Tronville.  The car is already there, and the weather is again cool after the rain of yesterday, but the sun is shining and gently warming.  We pass through Bar-le-Duc with its industrial edge, though looking pleasant in the sun. There are three lift bridges across roads into the town as well as the 5 locks, but we take it slowly in our stride.

Lift Bridges in Song at Bar-le-Duc

We actually get to Tronville by 2pm, so are well pleased with our progress.  Grandma and 13 year old granddaughter are still looking after their boat.  The youngster is certainly not sure of Topsy, and we spend the next 18 hours trying to make the two of them friends.  It seems the family is pure “Lorrainien”, Granddad originally from Metz and Grandma from Nancy but now both at Bar-le-Duc.  We don’t get any names but the youngster has quite good if basic English which she practises a little.  But she doesn’t like school, and is glad the holidays have arrived.

Wooded Hills Again at Tronville

Friday morning and we treat ourselves to almond and peach croissants for breakfast from the excellent bakery just 3 minutes from the mooring.  Grandma is off to fetch water as they have no natural supply on the boat.  We fill up her bottles to save the heavy walk back from the village.  We know from our Woodcraft days that carrying water is one of the most tiring jobs there is.

We make our goodbyes.  We are only going 5 kms (3 miles) into Ligny-en-Barrois (we are still in Bar country) and Glyn says he will be back by midday, but they hope Granddad may be back before long with the part needed to get the boat going.  And indeed when Glyn returns they have happily got underway.

The Folks are Gems at Ligny

Ligny is very pleasant and well set-out port, though only two other boats are there.  The town is also pleasant.  We use the Tourist office to see if we can get a taxi on Monday back from Void the other side of the summit.  There is no towpath for cycling through the tunnel and the canal will now rise fast into the hills.  The Tourist Office is amazingly helpful.  Not only do they look up taxi firms, they ring around and get quotes for us.  They also advise on the best places to take the taxi to and from.

The Port at Ligny-en-Barrois, beautifully set out and very helpful people

Back at the port the agents who also run a campsite discuss with us where to leave the car.  We can leave it where it is, but there would be complaints over Saturday (market day) as it is taking up a prime space.  So they offer a secure and cool alternative up at the campsite, at no cost.  This has been a very friendly and helpful town.  It is worth visiting this town simply for the friendliness and helpfulness of the townspeople. But it also has a beautifully clean and large town square, with the church looking over.

The Town Square at Ligny-en-Barrois

The Church Beyond the Town square at Pagny

The afternoon we use the car, which we will now be without for three days, to top up our supplies, and also visit the potential mooring sites up to the summit.  Naix-aux-Forges which we had planned is perfectly adequate, but Linda spots another possibility at Tréveray further along, which will split the travel over the next two days more evenly.  Tréveray also looks the nicer of the two moorings.  When we arrive we see Jim and Julia on the Baturi so we continue our stalking another day.   They also recommend Tréveray.  From there we visit Demange-aux-Eaux at the summit, catching up this time with John and Izzie on the Spring Tide.  Their book like ours tells them you are towed through the tunnel by an electric tug.  But Jim and Julia have just told us it “died” – “used to be” as in “dead parrot” - two years ago.  So we advise them they can travel under their own steam. 

We head back to Ligny and prepare for our crossing to the Moselle.

The Descent with the Marne- Chaumont to Vitry (22-29 June)

On the Move from Chaumont

Finally on Saturday morning we start the journey to Froncles.  We have been alerted to watch out for floating logs and branches in the canal, but the first part is reasonably clear.  Our first major phenomenon is the tunnel at Conde, interesting, but not quite a comparison for that at Langres / Balesmes.  On this section we will also meet half a dozen lift bridges.  Don’t worry.  We won’t show them all. But that in front of the tunnel is a little different.

Lift Bridge and Tunnel at Conde

We start to see some debris from the storm, but rather than in the Canal, it is in the Marne now running below us.  The Marne runs quite fast over its weirs, as we now watch descend to its flatter plains.

Debris in the Marne below the Canal

We said not too many lift bridges, but this one with the lock behind it at Brethenay struck us as also a slightly special view to share.

Another Lift Bridge Looking Back to Brethenay

Although the Marne valley is widening in parts it can still be quite steep in sudden turns.  The village at Riaucourt has a lovely little mooring, but even more so rises prettily and steeply from the lock and mooring. 

 

Steep Village at Riaucourt

As we approach Bologne (a nice village with shops but no patch on Boulogne or Bologna) we start to see the debris which has accumulated.  This (from Bologna to Vouécourt) was the section most affected.  The first signs are the debris which VNF has pulled out at locks, which stopped them functioning in the last two days.

Debris at Locks which forced their closure 

As well as the Canal the towpaths were closed to allow the cleaning-up work.  This of course was what caused Glyn to have to divert around the villages on his cycle back yesterday.

Even the towpath was closed

And then further on we start to see more damage.  VNF has cleared most of it away, but here and there we can where whole trees have been brought down, some still lying there.

And Whole Trees were Downed

Slowly we get as far as Viéville where we had decided on Thursday it would be almost impossible to find a mooring, and sure enough it is packed with private barges on long term stays.  But at least we now know we are not too far from Froncles.

No Mooring at Viéville

At Roȏcourt before Viéville and on the final section past Vouécourt we past some of the hillocks which Glyn had to cycle through with the towpath closed.  What was he complaining about?  These were not exactly Tour de France hills! 

The Hillocks Glyn had to Cycle 

A few times on this journey (first at Bologna) the locks have refused to operate because of debris jamming the rear gates open, and the cycle which releases the water from the lock won’t begin until they are properly closed.  At Vouécourt this happens a third time and after a short delay a VNF man arrives to operate the lock.  The last two times the gates were more or less closed, but this time they haven’t closed at all.  Did he notice that?  He arrives and immediately starts letting the water out of the lock.  As we start to descend very slowly water streams in from the pound behind.  We shout to him that the back gates aren’t closed.  

Emergency action!   Not too much water was lost, and any way this year France has more than it wants.

Going Down Without the Gates Closed

The final section to Froncles is serene.  Whether farmers or travellers we see a delightful scene of pony and foal tethered on the path munching their way through the afternoon. 

Pony and Foal Tethered on the Canal Side

At Froncles there is not too much space and we consider mooring alongside a good bank just outside the quay.  Richard and Sophie on the Souvenir are already there, however, and shout that there is space – at least to get our back deck alongside – just in front of them.  With their help we moor up quickly.  We get the dogs off for a walk but in the distance a bang goes off.  Whether it is the memory of the last week’s hail and thunder, or something else, this certainly spooks Topsy.  She is not going anywhere outside her boat.  She is a very frightened dog.

After we have settled, and calmed Topsy a little, we go to collect the car from the VNF yard and drive downstream to investigate Donjeux which will be our next day’s mooring.  It is a delightful spot.  Surprise, surprise the Lea Crest is moored here, and exchange some jollities with David and Pamela.  They say it is a great spot, but they will be off tomorrow.  We take the dogs for a walk and discover what might be a winter lay-over for a fair or circus.  And at one end - an amusement arcade in heaven! – is intriguing burial ground for dead dodgems.  The French do do things in style.

Dead Dodgems at Donjeux

The next day we putter up to Donjeux and enjoy a very peaceful rest there, while the girls can run freely.  And then we discover a very small memorial to someone who has died.  A brother we think, but had to make out.  It brings a sad tinge, but there could not be a more delightful spot for such a remembrance.

Memorial beside the Quay

Our next stop will be Joinville.  Glyn left the car at Donjeux last night and cycled back to Froncles.  So we take the car for a visit to Joinville 10 miles or 16kms down the valley.  We find the municipal quay very easily, along with Lea Crest and Souvenir who are always just a day ahead of us.   There seems to be no electricity or water here though, and we hear that some boaters have so over-exploited the communities’ free supply, that anew and quite complicates system has been introduced.  It is suggested however that there is another mooring just a few hundred yards further on, and we might investigate that. 

We do just that.  And find a small-holding of chambres d’hôte, where they are restoring the main buildings to open a new restaurant in 2014, and some beautiful moorings with water and electricity all for 5€.  The lady who shows us the facilities also says that they have a very big field, and the dogs can around in that if we wish.  That’s the clincher for us.

A Great Find at Joinville

So on Monday morning we gentle move up to our new found moorings at Joinville.  The valley widens out a little here.  Joinville is a clean and smart little town (quite bourgeois one might say, in a not-derogatory way).  The town, the moorings, and the facilities are all extremely good.

The canal water here is also extremely clear, though no doubt brought about by the marvellous vegetation growing out of the bottom of the canal.  It looks fantastic, but sadly did not come out in our camera shots.

We had decided to re-fuel here if we could, as will have used an estimated 150+ litres of diesel since leaving St Jean-de-Losne.  Now an added bonus, a very large Super-U store is just across the road from the premises we are moored.  They are out sight and out of earshot.  Diesel has to be jerry-canned. There is absolutely nowhere to get pumped diesel on the Heuilley / Marne-à-Saȏne or even the now imperiously named Champagne-Bourgogne canal.  But the operation here is as easy it jerry-canning can be.  We take just over 80 litres in four cans, and find that in fact we have not used more than 130 litres since we last filled.  So 80+ will do for now.  Joinville is added to our list of “good places” to visit.

Moored at Joinville

Form Joinville our next day’s mooring is another 10 miles / 16 kms at Bayard. Glyn doesn’t like cycling much more than 10 miles a day – well not when it’s every day.  Here the valley narrows again.  The spot is very quiet and unspoilt, even though a small train line runs alongside.  When we did our recce visit we once again caught up with the Souvenir and Lea Crest, and they also told us about the very good supermarket in the village, and the similarly good restaurant the Moulin Rouge at Chevillon nearby, though on this occasion we had no need to use either of them.

Bayard oozes gentility, but is a beautifully calm place. 

Did it add to the calmness that in the middle of the afternoon a circle of young ladies came and squatted in a very neat circle on the cut grass nearby, and then proceeded to take their ease while sharing a hookah.  The sweet smell was pleasant enough, and although a little taken aback we felt it was not ours to do anything.  After all, why disturb the peace unnecessarily.

St Dizier was to be our next stop.  It was once a quite an industrial town.  Several boaters had advised us to be wary of it, and no-one else was planning to moor there.  We explored one site the evening we were in Bayard and had to agree that was impossible.  We explored Hallignicourt further along the canal, but that for us (22 kms in all) was more than we wanted, though less than the 25 kms from Chaumont to Froncles.  

But walking peacefully along the bank at Hallignicourt we were suddenly hit by the screech, crash, thunder of a fighter jet taking off from a nearby airbase.  We all jumped in horror.  Poor Topsy!  She was just gone and raced over 500m including over the lock, and shivered under the car.  We headed back to Bayard with a conundrum over what to do tomorrow.

The next morning the canal was smothered in mist.  Promise of another beautiful day?  Or left-overs from the young ladies' tea party? But it all added to the serenity of the place.

Lost in the Mists in Bayard

As we moved on to St Dizier the mists began to rise.  Once again, as so often our canal journeys, our friend the heron guided us on our way.  Usually they took off when we got within 50 metres, but on this occasion he just sat there serenely until we were almost alongside.  They are majestic creatures, and this one with his own majestic reflection to look at.

Our Friend the Heron 

As we approached St Dizier the valley began to narrow in again, but there was still plenty of lush greenery.

The Valley Narrows in Again

But soon some of the old industrial signs began to appear.  Silos here, and occasionally old factories having known better days dotted there.

Industrial St Dizier

But St Dizier, we believe, has had an unfair press.  As we approached we had one older and one younger lock-keeper who helped with lift bridges (see – we haven’t given any more pictures) and malfunctioning locks who were both natives, and told us the moorings in the centre of town were excellent, with good parking nearby, and close to all the shops and amenities.  We decided to give it a try.

And actually we were impressed.  It seemed to have an excellent swimming pool and big cinema centre, ideal for younger teenagers.  And the centre itself was lively, although many of the shops had their summer sales on.  People were sitting out in the town square.  In the shops everyone was helpful.  This town is definitely undersold.

The Main Square at St Dizier

Park Behind the St Dizier Mairie

We thought we would be the only ones at St Dizier, as were all afternoon.  In the evening we popped on to Orconte, our next planned stop. Again we meet up with the Souvenir and the Lea Crest, and we say we are stalking them.   This is a goodbye visit for Richard and Sophie on the Souvenir.  Tomorrow they will complete this canal and head down the Lateral a la Marne towards Chalons-en-Champagne.  We make our goodbyes, maybe until another year.  The Lea Crest we will see tomorrow.

On return we saw one Dutch barge mooring, though quite a way from us, and then another yacht coming through the lock, but looking as though it would go on.  To our surprise we then saw the Draig Goch flying proudly from her bow.  Two Welsh flags in one French port would be a surprise to anyone.

In fact she then moored up behind us. Out of Swansea and called the Liberty, Glyn was conscious he had his Bluebirds polo shirt on.  But John and Susan were a great couple, more into boating and flying than football, but happy to see all Welsh sides, rugby or soccer, do well.

8am the next morning and the Liberty is heading off down south, while Glyn is on his bike (or taking it with him) to take the car on to Orconte, returning by 9.30am to take the boat down.

We stay two nights at Orconte. We have been on the move for six days continuously and Glyn has cycled 100 kms (60 miles) since Chaumont.  Again this is an excellent spot, especially for the dogs.  The local bakery is small but its Boule de Campagne is excellent.   There is a beautiful country walk nearby, with Topsy and Shady really enjoy, with wild flowers growing beautifully alongside the planted crops.

The Boulangerie at Orconte

Wild Poppies and Wild Vetch at Orconte

We are joined by the Cirrus which has tracked us since Chaumont.  A Belgian boat, they are also accompanied by friends in a camper van, and seem to have been having a whale of a time wherever they went.  And we make our goodbyes to the Lea Crest on Friday, and the Cirrus also goes down with them to Vitry-le-Francois and beyond.

Later on we go down to Vitry by car, see the Cirrus mooring, and the Lea Crest heading off into the western sun.  We are checking whether Vitry can take our length our boat, and whether we can park our car.  Waiting for the Capitaine and measuring space on the small key we meet up with Carl and Ginny on the Leonie.  They are on a 10 metre (35 foot) sailing boat which they have brought from Dartmouth via Guernsey to the Seine and the Marne.  Their storage is limited and they have a problem getting bottled gas.  As we have the car we say hop in, there are various places around here, we must be able to find some.

And we do, at massive Le Clerc store.  Carl also gets some fresh milk, and we get back to the boat they insist we have a cuppa with them, while waiting for the Capitaine.  We notice he is flying the blue ensign and ask if he is ex-navy?  Marines, he says, and since then they have spent seven years living on boats, much more cramped than ours.  But they seem exceptionally happy with it all, living an adventure.

So finally on Saturday morning we too set off to Vitry, the end of the Champagne-Bourgogne, where it meets the Marne proper, and you either turn west on the “Lateral a la Marne” to Paris, or east (as we shall) on the “Marne au Rhin” to Lorraine, Nancy and Strasbourg.

There is dredging on this final section of the canal, and we have been warned it can be difficult, with long delays.  We meet the barges taking the dredge but the bargees are all cheerful.  They seem to be having a day off.

Dredging Before Vitry-le-Francois

Then, as we expected, about 11am, we pass Carl and Ginny on the Leonie heading south.  We all wave and cheer and wish everyone Bon Voyage.

Carl and Ginny on the “Leonie” Going South

We (almost) finally pass the dredging machine itself.  It is certainly not working this Saturday.

Dredgers Don’t Work on Saturday

This section of the journey is almost over when we hit Lock 70.  The gates won’t close!  WE try various things.  Eventually the gates do close, but the lock won’t go down.  The VNF telephone system and our local calls don’t get anywhere.  We leave a message on the national system, but don’t know how we will have to wait.  Finally we get hold of the Desert lock just ahead of us, and he will send someone, who in fairness is with us in 5 minutes.  But we have spent 50 minutes in this lock. At least it makes you slow and calm down.  You can’t do anything, so relax!

At Desert we hand in our Tele-Commande for the locks.  The lock-keeper is very helpful.  We say we are heading to Bignicourt on the Marne-au Rhin tomorrow.  He says it is a lovely spot, and he will make all the arrangements.

And so finally we arrive at Vitry, the end of the canal.  Tomorrow we head east.  The Cirrus is there moored next to a Jerseyman, the Baturi with Jim and Julia on board, with the space of the Leonie in between, but this is too small for us.

We have a good chat with the Cirrus, Rick and Leona, and their friends Paul and Sonia.  We have a laugh that we have tracked each other for a week without really talking.  They are from Antwerp.  Is that in “South Holland” asks Glyn?  Where is his brain?  Definitely not they say, we are Belgian, which of course we knew.  Glyn’s head hits the deck. Of course, he says, it’s not been part of Holland since 1830.  And we all have a laugh over that, as long as Glyn promises never to forget again that Antwerp is in Belgium, and proud of it.

The Port at Vitry

Moored in front of the “Cirrus”

We explore the town a little, re-visit the Le Clerc for our own needs, and then take a drive down to Bignicourt to "sus" it out for the next day.  It is delightful.  We wander up to the nearby lock, where Topsy as relaxed as anything starts to bark at the waterfall.  Our friend from the lock at Desert emerges from the lock house.  No wonder he knew this place so well.  We chat about things, and he is very happy if we want to park our car here overnight.

One last chore on the Champagne-Bourgogne (CB).  Glyn packs his bike in the car, drives to Bignicourt again, and cycles back.  The two path is not what it was on the CB.  Quite hard work, starting with broken metalled road, and ending with a track in long grass and potholes to boot.  And getting across the “Canal Lateral a la Marne” is a bit of a challenge.  The path wants to go to Reims not Vitry!! But the scenery is beautiful.

So back for one of Linda’s splendid suppers.  

Tomorrow we really go East.  To the kingdom of Lothair.