On the Move from Chaumont
Finally on Saturday morning we start the journey to
Froncles. We have been alerted to watch
out for floating logs and branches in the canal, but the first part is reasonably
clear. Our first major phenomenon is the
tunnel at Conde, interesting, but not quite a comparison for that at Langres /
Balesmes. On this section we will also
meet half a dozen lift bridges. Don’t
worry. We won’t show them all. But that
in front of the tunnel is a little different.
Lift Bridge and Tunnel at Conde
We start to see some debris from the storm, but
rather than in the Canal, it is in the Marne now running below us. The Marne runs quite fast over its weirs, as
we now watch descend to its flatter plains.
Debris in the Marne below the Canal
We said not too many lift bridges, but this one with
the lock behind it at Brethenay struck us as also a slightly special view to
share.
Another Lift Bridge Looking Back to
Brethenay
Although the Marne valley is widening in parts it
can still be quite steep in sudden turns.
The village at Riaucourt has a lovely little mooring, but even more so
rises prettily and steeply from the lock and mooring.
Steep Village at Riaucourt
As we approach Bologne (a nice village with shops
but no patch on Boulogne or Bologna) we start to see the debris which has
accumulated. This (from Bologna to
Vouécourt) was the section most affected.
The first signs are the debris which VNF has pulled out at locks, which
stopped them functioning in the last two days.
Debris at Locks which forced their closure
As well as the Canal the towpaths were closed to
allow the cleaning-up work. This of
course was what caused Glyn to have to divert around the villages on his cycle
back yesterday.
Even the towpath was closed
And then further on we start to see more
damage. VNF has cleared most of it away,
but here and there we can where whole trees have been brought down, some still
lying there.
And Whole Trees were Downed
Slowly we get as far as Viéville where we had
decided on Thursday it would be almost impossible to find a mooring, and sure
enough it is packed with private barges on long term stays. But at least we now know we are not too far
from Froncles.
No Mooring at Viéville
At Roȏcourt before Viéville and on the final section
past Vouécourt we past some of the hillocks which Glyn had to cycle through
with the towpath closed. What was he
complaining about? These were not
exactly Tour de France hills!
The Hillocks Glyn had to Cycle
A few times on this journey (first at Bologna) the
locks have refused to operate because of debris jamming the rear gates open,
and the cycle which releases the water from the lock won’t begin until they are
properly closed. At Vouécourt this
happens a third time and after a short delay a VNF man arrives to operate the
lock. The last two times the gates were
more or less closed, but this time they haven’t closed at all. Did he notice that? He arrives and immediately starts letting the
water out of the lock. As we start to
descend very slowly water streams in from the pound behind. We shout to him that the back gates aren’t
closed.
Emergency action! Not too much water was lost, and any way
this year France has more than it wants.
Going Down Without the Gates Closed
The final section to Froncles is serene. Whether farmers or travellers we see a
delightful scene of pony and foal tethered on the path munching their way
through the afternoon.
Pony and Foal Tethered on the Canal Side
At Froncles there is not too much space and we
consider mooring alongside a good bank just outside the quay. Richard and Sophie on the Souvenir
are already there, however, and shout that there is space – at least to get our
back deck alongside – just in front of them.
With their help we moor up quickly.
We get the dogs off for a walk but in the distance a bang goes off. Whether it is the memory of the last week’s
hail and thunder, or something else, this certainly spooks Topsy. She is not going anywhere outside her boat. She is a very frightened dog.
After we have settled, and calmed Topsy a little, we
go to collect the car from the VNF yard and drive downstream to investigate
Donjeux which will be our next day’s mooring.
It is a delightful spot.
Surprise, surprise the Lea Crest is moored here, and
exchange some jollities with David and Pamela.
They say it is a great spot, but they will be off tomorrow. We take the dogs for a walk and discover what
might be a winter lay-over for a fair or circus. And at one end - an amusement arcade in
heaven! – is intriguing burial ground for dead dodgems. The French do do things in style.
Dead Dodgems at Donjeux
The next day we putter up to Donjeux and enjoy a
very peaceful rest there, while the girls can run freely. And then we discover a very small memorial to
someone who has died. A brother we
think, but had to make out. It brings a
sad tinge, but there could not be a more delightful spot for such a
remembrance.
Memorial beside the Quay
Our next stop will be Joinville. Glyn left the car at Donjeux last night and
cycled back to Froncles. So we take the
car for a visit to Joinville 10 miles or 16kms down the valley. We find the municipal quay very easily, along
with Lea
Crest and Souvenir who are always just a day ahead of us. There
seems to be no electricity or water here though, and we hear that some boaters
have so over-exploited the communities’ free supply, that anew and quite
complicates system has been introduced.
It is suggested however that there is another mooring just a few hundred
yards further on, and we might investigate that.
We do just that.
And find a small-holding of chambres d’hôte, where they are restoring
the main buildings to open a new restaurant in 2014, and some beautiful
moorings with water and electricity all for 5€.
The lady who shows us the facilities also says that they have a very big
field, and the dogs can around in that if we wish. That’s the clincher for us.
A Great Find at Joinville
So on Monday morning we gentle move up to our new
found moorings at Joinville. The valley
widens out a little here. Joinville is a
clean and smart little town (quite bourgeois one might say, in a not-derogatory
way). The town, the moorings, and the
facilities are all extremely good.
The canal water here is also extremely clear, though
no doubt brought about by the marvellous vegetation growing out of the bottom
of the canal. It looks fantastic, but
sadly did not come out in our camera shots.
We had decided to re-fuel here if we could, as will
have used an estimated 150+ litres of diesel since leaving St
Jean-de-Losne. Now an added bonus, a
very large Super-U store is just across the road from the premises we are
moored. They are out sight and out of
earshot. Diesel has to be jerry-canned.
There is absolutely nowhere to get pumped diesel on the Heuilley /
Marne-à-Saȏne or even the now imperiously named Champagne-Bourgogne canal. But the operation here is as easy it
jerry-canning can be. We take just over
80 litres in four cans, and find that in fact we have not used more than 130
litres since we last filled. So 80+ will
do for now. Joinville is added to our
list of “good places” to visit.
Moored at Joinville
Form Joinville our next day’s mooring is another 10
miles / 16 kms at Bayard. Glyn doesn’t like cycling much more than 10 miles a
day – well not when it’s every day. Here
the valley narrows again. The spot is
very quiet and unspoilt, even though a small train line runs alongside. When we did our recce visit we once again
caught up with the Souvenir and Lea Crest, and they also told us
about the very good supermarket in the village, and the similarly good
restaurant the Moulin Rouge at Chevillon nearby, though on this occasion we had
no need to use either of them.
Bayard oozes gentility, but is a beautifully calm
place.
Did it add to the calmness that
in the middle of the afternoon a circle of young ladies came and squatted in a
very neat circle on the cut grass nearby, and then proceeded to take their ease
while sharing a hookah. The sweet smell was pleasant enough, and
although a little taken aback we felt it was not ours to do anything. After all, why disturb the peace
unnecessarily.
St Dizier was to be our next stop. It was once a quite an industrial town. Several boaters had advised us to be wary of
it, and no-one else was planning to moor there.
We explored one site the evening we were in Bayard and had to agree that
was impossible. We explored
Hallignicourt further along the canal, but that for us (22 kms in all) was more
than we wanted, though less than the 25 kms from Chaumont to Froncles.
But walking peacefully along the bank at
Hallignicourt we were suddenly hit by the screech, crash, thunder of a fighter
jet taking off from a nearby airbase. We
all jumped in horror. Poor Topsy! She was just gone and raced over 500m
including over the lock, and shivered under the car. We headed back to Bayard with a conundrum
over what to do tomorrow.
The next morning the canal was smothered in
mist. Promise of another beautiful
day? Or left-overs from the young ladies' tea party? But it all added to the serenity of
the place.
Lost in the Mists in Bayard
As we moved on to St Dizier the mists began to
rise. Once again, as so often our canal
journeys, our friend the heron guided us on our way. Usually they took off when we got within 50
metres, but on this occasion he just sat there serenely until we were almost
alongside. They are majestic creatures,
and this one with his own majestic reflection to look at.
Our Friend the Heron
As we approached St Dizier the valley began to
narrow in again, but there was still plenty of lush greenery.
The Valley Narrows in Again
But soon some of the old industrial signs began to
appear. Silos here, and occasionally old
factories having known better days dotted there.
Industrial St Dizier
But St Dizier, we believe, has had an unfair
press. As we approached we had one older
and one younger lock-keeper who helped with lift bridges (see – we haven’t
given any more pictures) and malfunctioning locks who were both natives, and
told us the moorings in the centre of town were excellent, with good parking
nearby, and close to all the shops and amenities. We decided to give it a try.
And actually we were impressed. It seemed to have an excellent swimming pool
and big cinema centre, ideal for younger teenagers. And the centre itself was lively, although
many of the shops had their summer sales on.
People were sitting out in the town square. In the shops everyone was helpful. This town is definitely undersold.
The Main Square at St Dizier
Park Behind the St Dizier Mairie
We thought we would be the only ones at St Dizier,
as were all afternoon. In the evening we
popped on to Orconte, our next planned stop. Again we meet up with the Souvenir
and the Lea Crest, and we say we are stalking them. This is a goodbye visit for Richard and
Sophie on the Souvenir. Tomorrow they
will complete this canal and head down the Lateral a la Marne towards
Chalons-en-Champagne. We make our
goodbyes, maybe until another year. The Lea
Crest we will see tomorrow.
On return we saw one Dutch barge mooring, though quite
a way from us, and then another yacht coming through the lock, but looking as
though it would go on. To our surprise
we then saw the Draig Goch flying
proudly from her bow. Two Welsh flags in
one French port would be a surprise to anyone.
In fact she then moored up behind us. Out of Swansea
and called the Liberty, Glyn was conscious he had his Bluebirds polo shirt
on. But John and Susan were a great
couple, more into boating and flying than football, but happy to see all Welsh
sides, rugby or soccer, do well.
8am the next morning and the Liberty is heading off
down south, while Glyn is on his bike (or taking it with him) to take the car
on to Orconte, returning by 9.30am to take the boat down.
We stay two nights at Orconte. We have been on the
move for six days continuously and Glyn has cycled 100 kms (60 miles) since
Chaumont. Again this is an excellent
spot, especially for the dogs. The local
bakery is small but its Boule de Campagne
is excellent. There is a beautiful
country walk nearby, with Topsy and Shady really enjoy, with wild flowers
growing beautifully alongside the planted crops.
The Boulangerie at Orconte
Wild Poppies and Wild Vetch
at Orconte
We are joined by the Cirrus which has tracked
us since Chaumont. A Belgian boat, they
are also accompanied by friends in a camper van, and seem to have been having a
whale of a time wherever they went. And
we make our goodbyes to the Lea Crest on Friday, and the Cirrus
also goes down with them to Vitry-le-Francois and beyond.
Later on we go down to Vitry by car, see the Cirrus
mooring, and the Lea Crest heading off into the western sun. We are checking whether Vitry can take our
length our boat, and whether we can park our car. Waiting for the Capitaine and measuring space
on the small key we meet up with Carl and Ginny on the Leonie. They are on a 10 metre (35 foot) sailing boat
which they have brought from Dartmouth via Guernsey to the Seine and the Marne. Their storage is limited and they have a
problem getting bottled gas. As we have
the car we say hop in, there are various places around here, we must be able to
find some.
And we do, at massive Le Clerc store. Carl also gets some fresh milk, and we get
back to the boat they insist we have a cuppa with them, while waiting for the
Capitaine. We notice he is flying the
blue ensign and ask if he is ex-navy?
Marines, he says, and since then they have spent seven years living on
boats, much more cramped than ours. But
they seem exceptionally happy with it all, living an adventure.
So finally on Saturday morning we too set off to
Vitry, the end of the Champagne-Bourgogne, where it meets the Marne proper, and
you either turn west on the “Lateral a la Marne” to Paris, or east (as we
shall) on the “Marne au Rhin” to Lorraine, Nancy and Strasbourg.
There is dredging on this final section of the
canal, and we have been warned it can be difficult, with long delays. We meet the barges taking the dredge but the
bargees are all cheerful. They seem to
be having a day off.
Dredging Before Vitry-le-Francois
Then, as we expected, about 11am, we pass Carl and
Ginny on the Leonie heading south. We
all wave and cheer and wish everyone Bon
Voyage.
Carl and Ginny on the “Leonie” Going
South
We (almost) finally pass the dredging machine
itself. It is certainly not working this
Saturday.
Dredgers Don’t Work on Saturday
This section of the journey is almost over when we
hit Lock 70. The gates won’t close! WE try various things. Eventually the gates do close, but the lock
won’t go down. The VNF telephone system
and our local calls don’t get anywhere.
We leave a message on the national system, but don’t know how we will
have to wait. Finally we get hold of the
Desert lock just ahead of us, and he
will send someone, who in fairness is with us in 5 minutes. But we have spent 50 minutes in this lock. At
least it makes you slow and calm down. You
can’t do anything, so relax!
At Desert we hand in our Tele-Commande for the
locks. The lock-keeper is very
helpful. We say we are heading to
Bignicourt on the Marne-au Rhin tomorrow.
He says it is a lovely spot, and he will make all the arrangements.
And so finally we arrive at Vitry, the end of the
canal. Tomorrow we head east. The Cirrus is there moored next to a
Jerseyman, the Baturi with Jim and Julia on board, with the space of the Leonie
in between, but this is too small for us.
We have a good chat with the Cirrus, Rick and Leona,
and their friends Paul and Sonia. We
have a laugh that we have tracked each other for a week without really
talking. They are from Antwerp. Is that in “South Holland” asks Glyn? Where is his brain? Definitely not they say, we are Belgian,
which of course we knew. Glyn’s head
hits the deck. Of course, he says, it’s not been part of Holland since
1830. And we all have a laugh over that,
as long as Glyn promises never to forget again that Antwerp is in Belgium, and
proud of it.
The Port at Vitry
Moored in front of the “Cirrus”
We explore the town a little, re-visit the Le Clerc
for our own needs, and then take a drive down to Bignicourt to "sus" it out for
the next day. It is delightful. We wander up to the nearby lock, where Topsy
as relaxed as anything starts to bark at the waterfall. Our friend from the lock at Desert emerges from the lock house.
No wonder he knew this place so well.
We chat about things, and he is very happy if we want to park our car
here overnight.
One last chore on the Champagne-Bourgogne (CB). Glyn packs his bike in the car, drives to
Bignicourt again, and cycles back. The
two path is not what it was on the CB.
Quite hard work, starting with broken metalled road, and ending with a
track in long grass and potholes to boot.
And getting across the “Canal Lateral a
la Marne” is a bit of a challenge.
The path wants to go to Reims not Vitry!! But the scenery is beautiful.
So back for one of Linda’s splendid suppers.
Tomorrow we really go East. To the kingdom of Lothair.
