The Armançon Valley- Montbard to Tanlay (30 April -5 May)

The Land Of Buffon

So we now finally leave the summit hills of the Burgundy after our very quick descent, and move on as the canal follows the Armancon river to its confluence with the Yonne.  But today we follow the River Brenne until it joins the Armancon at Montbard just 13kms and 9 locks away.  At least the locks are more spaced out now.  The Tadham Castle is staying a few days longer as Brian has done his back in, so we travel on our own.

Montbard is the town of the Comte de Buffon, the Intendant of the King’s Gardens in the 18^th century and a famous natural historian, as well as innovative industrialist.  One of the first things we pass as we set off is Les-Granges-sous-Grignon where he was born.  It is a delightful little spot.

Les Granges-sous-Grignon

Courcelles-les-Montbard

We then pass the hillside village of Courcelles after the fifth lock which really marks our entry into Montbard country.  We seem to have entered the land of mini-chateaux, but it looks impressive hovering above the canal.

Courcelles Rising above the Canal

Mooring Up

We travel quickly, with a change of lock-keeper every two locks, and each is very quick and efficient.  We have done 8 of the 9 locks before 12 noon, though we won’t be able to make the final lock into the town before lunch time.  We moor up at the halte nautique just after passing under the main Paris-Lyon-Marseilles TGV line. This is an old industrial wharf, easy to moor and plenty of space (well it could 12 boats and is empty) and we can rest here while we visit and look at the port beyond the lock.  In theory the halte nautique has electricity but it doesn’t work.

We walk up to the port and give the girls a run.  It is slightly prettier and has half a dozen Locaboats moored, as well as one large tug.  This leaves two moorings, but one is shallow and short (too short for us) and on the other the bank is breaking the wooden shuttering, with water overflowing in places.  Reluctantly we agree we will have to stay at the old industrial port, which is not too bad, but the trains right behind us are a bit of worry.  The town itself looks quite attractive, but moorings without any services at 15 Euros sound a bit steep. 

On the other hand we visit the Tourist Office which is very helpful, and gives us information on some rural walks.  Tomorrow is May 1st, a national holiday in France and even the locks are closed, so we have to stay here at least two nights.

Montbard with Its Famous Tower Standing in the Park above the Town

We find a delightful little walk of our own for the evening, and the fisherman all around us add some colour delight to the old port.  Unfortunately as the evening draws on some steady and then heavy rain sets in, so that’s us – and the fishermen – for the day.

We don’t have too early a night, but the trains passing through regularly at all hours, and some early morning industrial clatter (even on May Day!) upset the dogs which is the only serious drawback/  And no-one collects the mooring fee.

 A Delightful May Day Bank Holiday Walk

After walking the dogs and doing some house cleaning we set off at about 11am on a 5 mile (8kms) walk along the canal and then up through the village of Nogent-les-Montbard and then up higher into forestry and along a lovely track back to Montbard.  Our little overnight frustration melts away in the warm sun and lovely countryside.  The chateau in Nogent is being done up, but looks quite beautiful in its slightly dilapidated and rustic setting.

The Renovation of the Chateau at Nogent-le-Grand

For the first time for a while we have a serious climb to make.  It is not too heavy and we need some practice as most of our walks have been along the flats linked to the canal.  Our next turning point is supposed to be at the Fontaines d’Argent, but we are not sure we find it, though a rushing stream seems to be more or less at the appointed place.  There is even a seat here which after the climb regrettably we are pleased to take advantage of.  It is delightful and also gives a beautiful view over the valley.

No Shortage of Water Here – The Fontaines d’Argent – But No Money or Silver Either 

We retire for lunch.  Isn’t it interesting how all the French fishermen (and women) completely disappear when the anointed hour of noon arrives?  We say this is no time to be on French roads, but it seems a good time to be out fishing, with no competition, unless it’s just that the fish go home at lunch time too.  Certainly of our fishermen had caught a real good sized fish before we set off at 11am, but at 1.15pm – not a soul to be seen.

We laze and read after lunch, but just above us on the hillside housing estate a Labour Day celebration is taking place, with gentle folk music adding to the pleasure of the afternoon.

Montbard and the Buffon Park

After a lazy afternoon we decide to take the Tourist Office’s other suggestion, walk through the town and visit the Buffon Park which surrounds the church on the top of a hill.  This turns out to be much more delightful than we had expected, and the broad path spirals up through beautifully kept greenery, and then comes down to other side of the town, with the fast running River Brenne and a lovely fountain in the middle of the small square.  We really have enjoyed our bank holiday here, despite the initial frustrations.

For Every Pleasure There is a Penalty

If 1st May seemed to herald the final beginning of Spring, 2^nd May was to bring us back to reality.  At about 5am we could hear beginning to settle.  By 7am when we take the dogs out it is sufficiently steady that we put their coats on them to keep them dry.  Collies don’t like coats (they are for silly poodles) but this morning even they are happy to wear them.

By 9am as we move off it is definitely raining very hard.  At the first lock we pass the Carolyn which has the priority of the lock as they are travelling upstream (“amont” in French).  They came into Montbard yesterday and did walk over to see us, but we were out on one of our walks.  A nice exchange though in the driving rain as we go in different directions.

Our objectives today are the Grand Forge at Buffon for lunchtime (5 locks and 7 kms) and then Cry-sur-Armancon for the end of the day (another 5 locks and 8 kms)/

The Grand Forge at Buffon

The weather gets worse.  By 11am just before we reach the Grand Forge everyone is totally soaked, and the rain is falling hard.  The only saving grace is that there is little wind so no driving rain.  But it’s still very wet/

We moor up at Buffon with ease and the Grand Forge is just 100 metres away.  Built in the 1760s, we guess that Georges-Louis Leclerc (who became the Comte de Buffon and also a member of the Academie Francaise) is something akin to French industrial history that Abraham Darby was to Britain, having designed, built and run a very modern iron making furnace.  They have restored the forge and its works over the last 30 years and it is quite well done.  This is well worth seeing even in the driving rain.  Alas Mr Leclerc’s elevation to the peerage did not do too much good as it only made an appointment for his sole heir and successor with Mme Guillotine.

The Mill Wheel of the Grand Forge at Buffon

The forge drew water from the Armancon (the Burgundy canal was not built until later until 1775-1834) for its main source of power.  It combined the operations of furnace, refinery and foundry, hence a major innovation for the mid 18th century.

The Foundry Furnace at Buffon

This establishment covering a couple of hectares (more than 5 acres) and including workers’ dwellings was quite a celebrity development in its time.  And the main forge has a viewing gallery which itself is of some interest.

The Viewing Gallery to the Main Forge at Buffon

Crossing the Borders

We escape the rain for a brief lunch and then set off for Cry.  We thought the rain was easing off but every time we think that it comes back harder, and with a vengeance.   We are now in the Armancon valley proper and shortly cross the departmental boundary from Cote d’Or to the Yonne.  The trees here are lush, and must be wonderful in autumn.  They are quite impressive even in the driving rain, though sadly we are too pre-occupied to take photographs.

We can moor up at Cry by 3pm. And though the rain eases a fraction as we do so, from 4pm onwards it comes in hard again.  This is a really good “green mooring”.  No electricity but good banks and bollards, and a water supply (do we really need it in this rain?).  And the girls can run about naturally on the banks in the open countryside and grass.  They do so for 20-30 minutes then prefer the warmth and comfort of the fire.  Our priorities after mooring up were alas cup of coffee / tea, hot showers, change of clothes and lighting the wood burner.  What would we do without it?  No television or internet signals here so we are beautifully on our own.  Book and DVD time this evening!

By 7pm the rain finally eases off and we can walk the dogs, and also go into the village.  It is quite small, and the cafe is closed.  However there is life as youngsters run around and park their bicycles.  But the dominating view is of the Armancon river raging around the village and under the causeway which spans the road between river and canal.

Family life at Cry-sur-Armançon

The Armançon rages past the village

“The Season” Starts Now

It’s a nice morning.  This week the weather seems to see-saw – beautiful on Tuesday, horrid yesterday, and nice again today.  We start the day by taking the dogs for a good walk up into the forested hills behind the mooring.  Then off we go.

The wooded hills above our mooring

The first lock is only 500 metres away but we have to wait as an hotel boat (the Horizon II whose mooring we could use at Venarey) is coming up the canal no doubt backs to its base. And as we leave the lock a hire boat is waiting to go upstream in our place.  After the second lock we reach Ravieres.  Here there are three boats all manoeuvring and active, and one, crewed by a Belgian couple, falls in behind us and locks with us the next four locks to Ancy.  They are always at the back of their boat so we don’t get a chance to chat.  Meanwhile a further hire boat passes us in the other direction.  Yesterday we didn’t see a boat.  Is it the weather, is this an area where holiday boats now frequent, or has “the season” finally started, we ask ourselves?  Well, it is May.  It is good to see a few more people on the canal.

The effects of yesterday are though all around us.  The Armancon, just to the side of the canal, has broken its banks in oh so many places, and at one lock the keeper has lost all his garden under water.

This was the Lock-keeper’s Garden

We ask the lock-keeper where we can moor as we won’t be able to make last lock to Ancy before midday.  Don’t worry, she says, I’ll see you through, and we get to Ancy all moored by 12.30.

Ancy-le-Franc

Ancy is good mooring, with all facilities, and free.  The town is 10 minutes walk away, but quite pleasant.  We just have a stroll around, get some bread and patisseries, and look at (but do not visit) the well-advertised and newly-refurbished chateau.  Chateaux are becoming a little bit like cathedrals: unless there is something exceptional we have begun to see too many.

Later on the Tres Joly moors up behind us.  Max and Sue are an Australian couple from Subiaco in Perth (wow! Not New South Waleans or Victorians). They have spent seven summers on the canals in France, but sadly are now on their way to St-Jean-de-Losne to sell the boat as they need to spend more time at home.  The day remains beautiful and we can have some lovely evening walks along the canal, if only Shady would come with us.

The refurbished Chateau at Ancy-le-Franc

19 +18 ≤ 38.5

Ancy is very nice but we decide to move on.  Just ahead of us along the canal the Edwina Rose is moored.  They have spent a couple of days, but had to sty off the main moorings earlier as these were taken by hotel boats.  We chat as we take the girls for their early morning walk.  They too have booked the next lock for 9am.   Well, there should room enough for us both, but adding our two lengths together there will be about a foot (30 cm) in front, a foot between and a foot behind, and that is all.  We agree to think about it at the first lock, and see what the lock-keeper says.  We ought to conserve water, but then again, hardly today!  But it’s easier for the lock-keeper doing us together.

At the first lock the lady keeper from yesterday waves us both in.  It goes OK but it is tight.  Similarly at the second lock, but the keeper asks if we want to travel separately.  We both say it’s no problem.  But as we travel the next pound we feel that while we have no problems we are making it difficult for the Edwina Rose, which has no bollard to attach to at the front and dare come back into us.   We call the Ancy lock-keeper who has seen us through the last few locks (and who kindly gave us her mobile number last night) and say we think it might be better if we let the Edwina Rose go ahead.  We’ll moor up for half an hour and do some chores.  She agrees this might be best, and will call her colleague to say we won’t reach him until 11am.  She has been so understanding and helpful (and also happy and chatty).

But at the next lock the keeper is first awaiting another upstream boat (we really do seem to be seeing lots more boats now) and this slow us down.  At the fourth lock we say to the keeper that we don’t think we can make the fifth (after which there are some moorings) by midday.  And he agrees.  Not possible.  Then as we are chatting he says, OK, it’s me at the next lock, and I’ll get you through.  Did we say something nice, or did he work out better to get us through rather than have us champing at the bit at 1pm.  Probably a bit of both.  He liked the dogs.  He has five terriers, and we talk about wild boar hunting.

Five More Locks and Then?

It’s still good weather today, and now in the afternoon it is getting quite warm indeed.  At the second lock there is a team which looks mother and son, though son is doing most of the work.  They have a 12 year old setter, and we talk about her dog and ours, as they eye each other form boat and lock side, but all behave properly.  Beautiful day today, we say, not like Wednesday.  We haven’t been able to get TV or any decent Internet single since Montbard.  Haven’t you seen the Meteo, she says.  We query!  It’s very heavy (“lourd”) today she says, and before the evening’s out there will be “orages”.   Wind and rain, we say?  Oh yes, and thunder and lightning, and hail!  What, on this lovely day?

Donner and Blitzen

We get to Tanlay, our destination for the next two days, nicely by 3.30pm.  As we moor up it starts to blacken.  Before we can do anything it starts to rain.  Then the lightning.  Then the thunder.   Then the hail.  It lasts for three hours, but amazingly we travelled in perfect weather.  Who was that lady – a goddess or a witch?  Or just someone who has seen the Meteo?  By 7.30pm we can (we hope) finally take the girls out for a walk.  They have been cowering for three hours under anywhere they can hide, and are now very happy to go out.

Beatrix Potter Land

When we finally go out we find opposite an actual narrowboat (a real narrow boat not pretend like ours) with Tony and Doreen Davis from Weybridge on their way to Strasbourg.  We say we hope to follow them next year.  They are on a mooring with power but are off first thing in the morning so we agree to switch over and take their slot so we can plug in.  Their boat is called the Jeremus Piscator.  Is that a Beatrix Potter character we ask, and they laugh Yes.  God what a strange crew we all are: Latin, Beatrix Potter and Narrowboats in the Burgundian countryside.

Little and Large – the Jeremus Piscator (before the gap far right ) 

in front of the hotel boat C’est la Vie

Tanlay is a small place, quite beautiful, but sadly seeming to lose its facilities.  The shopping was quite limited, no bank now, and essentially you have to go Tonnerre for everything.

Before we went out in the morning we check with the hotel boat next to us whether he is going to move today.  The mooring rings are not well placed are ware reliant on a strained mizzen rope to stop us moving backwards.  If his sheer size moves out it night not hold.  They don’t understand our French.  That’s because they include a Chelsea supporter from Woolwich (how can anyone form Woolwich not support the Arsenal) and a Polish lad who comes from near Płoty (twinned with Niebüll) who is not sure he is more amazed that we know where Płoty is or that we know how to pronounce it.

All quiet and peaceful.  We decide that we’ll visit the chateau in the afternoon, and eat galettes and crêpes in the cafe 10 metres from the boat which says it does “specialités Bretons”.   And then the Tadham Castle and Edwina Rose come to join the party!

Back to the Colignys

The chateau is quite interesting, but not we think especially special, with rather a mish mash of items from different centuries.  However this was the home of the Coligny family (of our beloved Chatillon-Coligny) and Admiral Coligny himself lived here before Catherine de Medici had him fixed just before the Massacre of St Bartholomew, but you should never fall out with a woman who manages to be wife, mother, or mother-in-law to five kings!!

The only good photo we get here is a very rare one of us together, courtesy of Brian and Pat.

Together in the Courtyard of the Coligny Chateau at Tanlay (Photo 18).

The galettes and crepes in the evening were very good (we recommend this simple cafe) but don’t order your puddings with your main meal.  They come hotter if you order separately.  But before we go there Andy and Chris from the Edwina Rose come over and have a glass of wine and a long chat about their experiences on the Rhone and the Midi. We learn so much and still have so much more to learn.

The Land of the Gauls (26 – 29 April)

The Descent from Pouilly

Now we descend following initially the Armancon valley before crossing to the Brenne and later on back to the Armancon.  This is beautiful countryside, and lower down is reputedly where Vercingétorix lost the last battle of the Gauls against Julius Caesar in 52 BC (just after he’d poked his nose into Britain).  We plan 12 locks and have one lock-keeper for the first seven.  We explain where we plan to moor.  There is an 11km pound (stretch of water without locks – “bief” in French) where one of our guide books says is very beautiful. It’s very rural he says, but we explain then the dogs can have their liberty.  He tells his colleague at the 13^th lock beyond the long pound that we won’t be coming through to him today.  His colleague obviously thinks we’re nuts, but our loyal lock-keeper says we are doing it for the dogs. 

Green But Not Usable

At the 8^th lock a second lock-keeper takes over.  The first was very efficient but this guy is very pleasant and chatty, but also very fast.  No sooner the back gates are closed - and before Linda can get back on the boat – the water is dropping – and fast.  Luckily Linda is athletic enough to get back to base.  The banks of the canal though are getting rougher.  No shuttering or stone walls, just washing into the countryside like a river’s edge. 

We ask the lock-keeper if it’s like all the way to St Thibault where we had planned to moor.   Oh! Yes! He says.  It’s lovely there but no real moorings.  How deep are you, he asks?  60-70 (cms) we reply, but we are straight-sided.  Oh! It will be very difficult there, he says.  The drizzle is turning to rain and we begin to reconsider.  At the next lock we ask would it be alright if we went on to Pont Royal (after the 13^th lock where there are real moorings).  Of course, he says, I’ll ring ahead.

We have completed all 12 locks in an hour and quarter.  We say our goodbyes and we suggest the next lock at 1730 as we have things to do and want to go slowly.  Oh! I’ve booked for 1700, he says, but you can be later. 

We dawdle and tidy and have only done 2 kms by 1600.  So we press on then with a little more urgency.  We pass St Thibault which is very rural but not special, and certainly mooring, especially in the now steady-to-hard drizzle, would have not been much fun. 

We reach the cut just before Pont Royal just before 5pm so we feel we are reasonably on time.  But the rain and wind are now getting steadier and stronger all the time.  This cut, the Tranché de Creusot, is however a quite interesting piece of canal archaeology.  We make the lock by 1715.

The Tranché de Creusot approaching Pont Royal

Pont Royal in the Rain

It is now pouring.  The lock-keeper doesn’t seem too happy.  We discuss leaving in the morning.  In short he says you can leave at 0915 or at 0915, or otherwise you’ll get stuck!  Well, it saves having to make a decision!

By the time we get to the mooring the weather is really foul.  We moor, take the girls for the shortest necessary walk, and hunker down for the night.  A lovely evening in front of the fire and watching an episode of “The Killing”.  And we only dive for 20 minutes at 10pm to give the girls their last walk.

Locking Together with the Tadham Castle

The morning is brighter, and Glyn takes the girls for a good long walk.  We have two locks and then a section of 41 locks in 15 kms.  The Tadham Castle (with Brian and Pat whom we met at Dijon) and also saw at Pouilly, but had expected to be a day behind, had also been at Pont Royal, and the lock-keepers want us to lock together today.  They are over 15m long and we over 18m.  Not much spare space in a 38.5m lock of which a metre at the back is taken up by the sill. Not much, but plenty enough.

Where Do You Want to Stay – Marigny or Marigny?

At the lock the new lock-keeper asks where we want to go today.  We had thought of Marigny, 12 locks into the main flight, but Brian and Pat want to go as far as possible, so we ask, well how far can we go?   Well there’s Marigny or Marigny he says.  The only other mooring is Pouillenay, and that’s too far in one day.  Ok.  So it’s Marigny.

At 12 noon we are four locks off Marigny.  Shall we moor here, we ask?  Do you want to continue, he asks?  But it’s 12 noon!  No, I can continue he says.  I have to go back for another at 1pm and it’s better if I get you to Marigny first, as they are coming to Marigny this afternoon.   We are slow as fitting the two boats in takes a little time, and he is working on his own, but we make Marigny at 1310, and dives off for another dose of the same section.  It’s hard work being an eclusier these days.

Pretty little village at Marigny-le-Cahouët

Marigny is in a fact a lovely mooring.  There is famous castle nearby though the book says it is not easy to see.  We fail to find it this time, but the village itself is not small, but very beautiful.  We have an enjoyable afternoon mooching about.

Brian and Pat come for en early evening glass of wine, and the third the boat, the Armeau skippered by Jean-Pierre from Beauvais with his wife and aunt, arrives.  They cycle off and find the castle.  Well, we’ll do it next time, as we’ll see a lot of the Burgundy this year. 

Three into Two won’t Go

All three crews discuss together in the evening what to do tomorrow.  Jean-Pierre needs to get to Montbard by Sunday, so really needs to get to Venarey (30 locks away) tomorrow.  We won’t all fit in a lock together.  If there is only lock-keeper, what do we do?  We offer to wait back if necessary as we are the longest (the other two boats together in a lock would be easier and quicker) and we are not in a rush.  But we agree to see how things look tomorrow morning.

At 9am we are all keenly at the lock.  A young student lock-keeper turns up.  He’s not sure if there is anyone else coming but in another couple of minutes a slightly more experienced and authoritative colleague is on the scene.  We’ll promenade together he says, but I’ll take the two shorter boats together first.  It’s great when they take the decisions for you!  And maybe we can get another colleague out.  (Bearing in mind this is Saturday that’s pretty impressive, we think.)

The Armeau and the Tadham Castle go off.  The eclusier comes back to us and advises us to cast off and go “mi-bief”.  We had noticed we had very a slight list, but he is conscious that filling the lock is lowering the pound, and it is already shallow at the edges.  So off we go.

30 Locks in a Day – But It’s Tougher than Caen Hill, well for the Lock-keeper at least

The Eclusier who arrives is the man we had yesterday.  He is very helpful and polite though not especially talkative.  He asks where we want to go today and we say Venarey.  That’s 30 locks he says – and we are not sure whether he is just informing us, questioning whether we can go that far, or stressing how much work it is.  But in fairness he is not complaining, though after yesterday it is a lot of work.  9.20am and we start to descend the first lock.

We do nine locks by 11.30am and he says he has to go back to another boat, so we stop here for lunch, but he will be back not long after 13.00.  We walk the dogs forward 3 locks and catch up with Armeau and Tadham Castle.  They could have made faster progress they feel (they have had two lock-keepers) while we feel we have done exceptionally well, but are little doubtful that we will make Venarey.

A quiet lunch and then we prepare the lock ahead trying to help our lock-keeper.  He arrives at 1.20pm and immediately gets to work at the forward lock.  Off we go again.  Although this less than locks than Devizes to Foxhangers it is harder work, he has to do most of it on his own, not team effort here although we do manage to close one lock gate most of the time, and the locks are more spaced out.

We experience various feelings as we go along – interest, intrigue, frustration at the pace, and then a calm peacefulness as you just settle to the inevitable gentle pace.  And by the end of the journey almost some slight elation at having completed it all. 

Calming Hills, but If There are Gauls Up There I wouldn’t like to be Julius Caesar

We reach Pouillenay (after 13 more locks) at about 4pm and wonder whether we will be asked to stop here for the night.  But no hint of that.  Our escort goes straight on to prepare the next lock. 

L’Equipage Gets Tired doing 30 Locks

And finally at about 5.30pm we are approaching our destination.  Up in the hills we see a seemingly lovely village.  This is Alise-Sainte-Reine just before Venarey.  It looks idyllic perched up in the hills (better than photograph!)..  Hard to believe this was ancient Gallic hill fort and the scene of a major siege and battle.

Alise-Sainte-Reine in the distance

It is the lock-keeper we feel sorry for though, he has flogged away from 9am to 6pm, without any complaint, and must be very tired.  His mates from ahead of us come back to help with the last couple of locks, but otherwise he has done it all on his own.  We give him a bottle of wine as a token of appreciation, but small compensation for all he has done for us in the last two days.

We are in the port and moored up at 6pm.  Brian, Pat and Jean-Pierre and his family are there waiting to help us moor, with a place already prepared.  However there is no electricity and water which is promised in the books.  Jean-Pierre immediately rings the Mairie and somehow gets someone even at this hour on a Saturday, and he plugs away as only a Frenchman could.  By 7pm we have both, and it’s all free because of the unsatisfactory arrangements when we arrived.

 

Orange Alerts and Stormy Nights

We are all very tired so except for dog walking it is a quiet night in.  A young couple are fishing from the other side of the bridge with a tent, and still there at 10pm.  Are they staying the night?  The meteo is quite fun for tonight (if you like that sort of thing).  Orange alerts for violent winds to the South of us.  Thank God we are not on the Rhone. 

We awake at about 5.30am.  Don’t know about the Rhone but the wind is quite strong outside here, and it carries on for another couple of hours.  We clear the roof of anything that might be blown off.  At 7.30am Glyn starts to take the girls out for a walk.

Pecheurs dans le Merde

That young couple were fishing all night, but have now decided enough is enough, have packed up and trying to drive away in their car.  Trying.  The wheels are digging into the mud rather than taking them forward, and they have to be careful not to end up in the canal.

Glyn tries to help them reverse and find a better track, but it isn’t working.  He heads back to the boats to get more help, and reinforcements arrive.  By now the car is truly embedded in the mud.  Will we ever get it out??  Luckily a little boy on the other bank has also seen them and gone to get his Granddad with a tractor.  They get hauled out, and by 8.30 Glyn can continue with his dog walk.

If the girlfriend is till with her fisherman after all that it must be something made in heaven.  And as we leave the boat in the afternoon there we see them again together fishing another stretch of bank.  It’s sunny now at least, we all laugh to each other. They both seem very happy.

The Grand Battle of Alesia – New (Excellent) Museum opened March 2012

So we are off for a 2 mile walk to the new museum at Alise-Sainte-Reine commemorating the Battle of Alesia in 52 BC when Julius Caesar finally (well almost finally) crushed the might of the Gauls, defeating Vercingétorix, the Auvernois leader of the Gauls.  The museum only opened in March and is very well done, giving an excellent history of the Roman republic and its tribulations, of Caesar’s campaigns, and of the history and culture of the Gauls.  We are very impressed.  There is also an interesting reconstruction of the Roman fortifications which sealed in Vercingétorix’s forces (from the disparate Gallic tribes) in the Alesia oppidum, and led to his defeat after two months’ siege.

 What the Romans ever done for us - They gave us stakes and marshes to die in of course!

The Roman fortifications at Alesia

If you are in these parts, the museum at Alesia is well worth a visit.  We go back to tea and scones with Pat and Brian on the Tadham Castle.  Brian is suffering painfully from his back, but hopefully they will get to the museum in a couple of days.  They are staying here so he can rest, while tomorrow we will be off, back to join the Armancon valley.

There is also a local Nichols Boat Hire here in this small port (and a Locaboat hire at Montbard a little further on), so if ever you fancy an energising holiday hiring a boat to to go to Dijon and back could be very good fun!

The Harbour and Nichols Boat Yard at Venarey-les-Laumes