This is How Boating Should Be (6-31 August)

It's Hot in August

We are returning for eight weeks, for the return to Briare for our over-wintering.  We have decided next year we will head for Strasbourg, but for now one further if not final stroll down the Burgundy and Nivernais canals.  We aim to put in as many photos as possible, but so far have little time to take photos when boating.  Sorry if the text is not short enough.

We had a delightful trip from Caen to Pont d’Ouche near Beaune, which went absolutely trouble free through the beautiful countryside of Normandy, with no town larger than Livarot (just to thumb our noses at Camembert). The only large town / city we bypassed was Chartres which as Kate Mosse’s nemesis to Carcassonne made us think a little of the Midi.  Skirting Montargis and Auxerre we got to our destination by 4.00pm.  A beautiful day and beautiful evening to get the boat ready to move.  Pont d’Ouche must have been named after some old bridge, but it is the new Autoroute du Soleil viaduct which now dominates the skyline, but hardly intrudes unless you make a point of looking.

Autoroute Viaduct at Pont d’Ouche

We had a free day at PD to reprovision and enjoy the bar’s gardens before a day at Vandenesse and then over the summit through the tunnel to Pouilly.  We meet up with our old friends Roger and Lilyane on the Sept-a-Huit, who presented Linda with her “Chez Bryony” hat at Léré last year and it was good to see them.  They have changed base to St Florentin and were strolling down there for some small attention to their 32 year old engine.

Canals are good for Bikes too!

The highlight of this trip is that we are car-hopping all they down to Migennes.  This means that after a day’s cruising one of us (well usually Glyn) will jump on his bike and cycle back to where we started to collect the car.  It has several advantages.  Glyn needs the exercise.  And we have the car in the afternoons if we want to visit further afield.

The first section is just 10kms to Vandenesse.  Glyn takes the car the day before and cycles back.  As it’s not too far he also takes Topsy with him.  10kms should be nothing for a three-year old border collie, and it’s all downhill.  Topsy does the first half very well.  After all it is walks she knows very well.  But then running at 15mph (25 kms per hour) is a bit much for even for a fit young thing.  They mix walk and cycle for the second half, as Topsy recovers her breath.  When she gets back she really is ready for her sleep.

You never told me I had to run this fast for so far/  Topsy on strike on the run back from Vandenesse

A Simple but Beautiful Church at Crugey en Auxois

The Mists and Flowers at Vandenesse

Over the Summit

The journey through the tunnel was quite different this time, with lights for all but the central 0.5 km (instead of the other way round).  Makes steering a lot easier.  Linda does the cycle ride back with Glyn.  Only 8 kms but mostly uphill.  A lovely route over the summit marred only by the motorway interchange for a short while. 

The Pouilly tunnel with lights on

And see the Stalactites

We are just lazing it now.  It’s getting quite warm (27ºC while at Pouilly).  So we just travel in the mornings and mooch around or read the afternoons. We spend an extra day ay Pouilly jerry-canning diesel, which we are now quite expert at, and then Skype Lauren in the afternoon.  It was good to see Alfie, and he was clearly recognising and trying to touch his Nana on the screen at home.

The next three days we cheat.  We have to take the major flight of locks (63 in all) from Pouilly down to Montbard.  One of the days will be very long with 32 locks, and unlike Devizes / Caen Hill we are not in control, and with just two lock-keepers (rather than a team of six or eight we sometimes used at Caen Hill).  Also there is good bus service from Montbard to Pouilly so we leave the car for three days and Glyn goes back by bus on the Tuesday evening to get it.  So except for the middle day we just laze and read and walk the dogs.  This is what boating should be all about.

The Abbaye de Fontenay

We have a free day at Montbard.  We decide to visit the Abbaye de Fontenay.  Well it is Assumption Day, and always interesting to look at old ways of life.  We could cycle it but not with the dogs, and the Abbaye has some wonderful woods around where they can walk freely.  A really pleasant day out, with a picnic on the grounds and the girls sitting with us.

The Central Courtyard at Fontenay

A Simple Altar at the Cistercian Abbey Church

The Fountain and Hospital Section at Fontenay

The 12^th Century Water Wheel at Fontenay for Europe’s First Hydraulic Hammer

Into the Heatwave

If we had enjoyed the weather so far, it was about to get even better – or just too good.  From Montbard to Tonnerre we just cruised into a heat wave.  The first day was not too bad.  We moved just a little distance down to Buffon, and as we had previously seen the forge took the advantage of having the car with us to drive to the medieval town of Semur-en-Auxois.  It was beginning to get hot – up to 32ºC (90ºF) – just up to the limit of comfortable, at least for us, but also beautiful in the shade of the town.  If you are in this part of the world Semur is worth a visit.  Of course you should do it by bicycle. You should, that is, not us!

Semur-en-Auxois – in Sun and Shade

A Steep Hill in Semur – but a beautiful cottage

Oops – Not So Good

The Towers and Walls at Semur 

The Spires above the Towers

It was getting hot that day so we didn’t want to cook.  We had passed a local restaurant several times now, and thought we would like to try it.  It looked good as did the menu.  The food was indeed quite good (6 out of 10) but the service and the communication between the staff. Well! (as someone would say)!

Le Marronier from the Canal – Only a Bit like Fawlty Towers

The next four days really were the heatwave.  We progressed slowly – Ravieres, Ancy, Lezinnes, Tonnerre – each day Glyn cycling back to get the car, and making sure he did as soon after midday as possible to avoid the heat.

We hit 42ºC (108ºF) on the back deck, and even with two fans going (the one we had and one newly bought) we could only keep it to 31ºC (88ºF) in the cabin.  We cruised in the morning, and hid from the sun in the afternoons, only to be seriously annoyed by French TV giving endless warnings to “personnes agés” about the “canicule”, keeping cool and drinking a lot.  We are obviously (obviously!) not in that category, but water and squash consumption, as well as several cold showers a day, did somewhat increase.  Thank God for the shower.

As we approached Tonnerre “la Tonnerre” did indeed threaten, but no real storm came.  One morning the first lock-keeper warned us – it would be the storm today.  But the third lock-keeper was busy extensively watering his lawn and garden.  No, you’ll see, he said, it will be 35ºC this afternoon.  He was wrong – by at least two degrees more!

Into the Calm

Slowly it began to cool, but no storm, and not much rain.  We treated ourselves at Tonnerre to the Fosse Dionne and even allowed ourselves to be persuaded to eat snails.  These were done differently from any we’d had before, and were very tasty.  This is an excellent restaurant (sorry! "table d'hote") and really good value. 

As we went on there was lots of mist in the morning.  We sought moorings with shade as the highest priority.  But the mornings were very pretty.  And so we made our way gently down to Migennes, via Flogny, St Flo and (as Marty Feldman would say)  not stopping at Brienon.  Pity though, such a lovely town and great baker.

Calm and light mist in the morning

At Migennes we have a couple of days in port.  The local floral art is wonderful.  And these birds are much quieter than those in Cardiff or those on the canal.

Floral art at Migennes

We check in with “‘Eavens Above” (Evans Marine that is) for some small works to make us better shipshape for bigger rivers and locks, and inevitably some more work on the bow thruster (the only real downside of this boat).  Some of the work is fiddly, and Simon is a man short, so it all takes longer than we had hoped.  But good progress is made, and the bow thruster is additional work to that booked.  Five days turn into eight, but we find things to do and have a couple of excursions. Auxerre and the entry to the Nivernais are always enjoyable. 

Never Relax on the Waterways

We pick up that there are water problems on the Nivernais – the pound (Bief) at Coulanges is seeping water and not very easily passable. Is it down to 80cm (passable for us) or 45cm as one boater says?  On the Friday VNF issues an “Avis a Batellerie” (advice to boaters) saying the depth is down to 80cm.  We ponder and so spend Sunday visiting this beautiful section.  Should have taken more photos!  It is 80cm, just, and as it stands we can – with very great care - get through. But will it be like that next Friday.  Are we stranded?  Do we go North?  Another  adventure awaits us.

Taking the Shade where the water doesn't flow

Shady really enjoys the Shade – But can we get down this canal she worries!

The Return to Pont d’Ouche (11- 26 June)

This is a short visit just to get back the boat back up to Pont d’Ouche near Dijon where we will leave it for July, and we will then return for a gentle  stroll back to Briare in August / September.

We also now know that readers would like less text and more pictures.  So we’ll try to keep the text short.

Out from the traps

In fact this is territory we’ve already covered, so in fact we concentrated on just travelling.  We arrived in Migennes on Monday 11 June, and were able that day to take the boat back, refuel and reprovision, and be on our way the next morning.  Without killing ourselves on the next six days we plough up the canal – St Flo, Tonnerre, Ancy, Montbard, Pouillenay (120 kms and 70 locks) – all in five days, and all well starting the ascent to the summit.

Honey for sale at Germigny (St Florentin)

But let’s get this log out of the way in the early morning mist (Egrevin après Germigny) 

Roses at St Vinnemer (Photo 88 June 2012)

The Postman arrives at the lock Argenteuil

The Skies Threaten - Morning as we leave Pouillenay on the main ascent

Marigny - Water, water all around, not a drop to moor

On the sixth day (perhaps the Sunday should have been the seventh, but there we are) we take a shorter trip – only 5 kms but 18 locks – to middle of the flight at Marigny, but here we have a bit of fun.  Although rain has filled the feeder lakes and in theory water supply is not a problem, here they have some major leaks.  Three times we moor.  The first time we are suddenly tipping up in the late afternoon as they fill the lock below us to allow another boat up to the pound.  The loss of 4 ins (10cm) of water is more than enough to have our berthed side raised up, listing to that amount.

We remoor, but again by 9pm we are beginning to list again (because, as explained to us the next morning, of the leaks).  There is only 18 ins (45 cm) of water, and we need 24 /60.  A second re-mooring, but even 5 foot (1.5m) out from the bank there is only just the depth we need.  Heath Robinson like we fix gangplanks and bargepoles to try to keep us off the bank.  The next morning though  we are still listing now about 20 cms, well tilted, but we refloat and keep the back of the boat mid-channel until the locks open and we can travel.

The pounds (“biefs” in French) are intermittently very shallow from here to the summit, explained to us by the lock-keepers because of the leaks.  Otherwise there is no explanation why some have good depth and others are very shallow.

Almost at the top of the flight from Venarey to Pont-Royal

The Peace and Tranquility at Pont Royal

Fun and Games at the Summit

We moor one more night at Pont Royal – a beautiful little hamlet with excellent mooring – and then reach Pouilly-en-Auxois at the summit.

We have great fun at the Capitainerie / Tourist Office as we ask for guidance on French bus and train timetables (which even they are flummoxed by, though in the end we – more or less – sort them out), vets and sewers.  One young lady doesn’t like being known as the sewer and dog expert, so we re-christen her the town ecology and animal health expert.

Pouilly is beautiful.  We have a couple of days there - one while Glyn takes bus and train back to Migennes to collect the car (though he wishes they’d known at the Tourist office  that the 6.10am bus had been re-scheduled to 6.30) - and another while we have a day out at Beaune. 

The Stupendous Burgundy roof at the Hotel Dieu Hospice, Beaune (Photo 114 June 2012)

The Ceiling of the Grande Salle at Hotel-Dieu

Bed Rows at the Beaune Hospice c. 17^th century

Then we move through the dark tunnel (see the “Beautiful Valley of the Ouche”) and on to Vandenesse, where we have three free days.  The first we visit the beautiful Chateauneuf-en-Auxois; the second the Ouche Valley Steam Railway; and the third we just mooch about.  But we give you the story just in pictures.

The village at Chateauneuf-en-Auxois

The main residence at Chateauneuf-en-Auxois

The canal at Vandenesse looking down from Chateauneuf 

The view up to Chateauneuf from Vandenesse

Pouilly (en Auxois) in the distance from Chateauneuf

The restored railway station at Bligny-sur-Ouche

But is it only a toy engine to take us down the valley to Pont d'Ouche?

Finally we take the boat down to Pont d’Ouche and moor up where we will leave the boat for five weeks.  Bow-moored so getting on and off involves a bit of exercise, and at least once while wet Topsy slips on the gangplank and ends up in the canal.

And so we take the trip back to Normandy and the Ferry.  We let the Sat Nav do the navigating which takes us on a wonderful mystery tour over the Morvan hills, across the Nivernais canal, through Rogny of all places, and then down the Loire valley as if we had just started from Briare.  The weather is hot (35º) and we dodge the one or two showers, before overnighting once again at the Hotel du Tribunal at Mortagne in the Perche, and taking the ferry the next day.  We almost bake on the quay at Ouistreham (Caen) but three hours later in Portsmouth it is only cold, driving rain.  Oh how good it is to be in Blighty.

The Bustle and Glory of Tonnerre - and Beyond (6-13 May)

We agree to move on the Sunday morning to Tonnerre.  Not much of a TV signal here and we would like to be able to get the results of the Presidential election tonight as it happens.  We will go first.  Brian and Pat (Tadham Castle) will come later today and Andy and Chris (Edwina Rose) will follow tomorrow.

It is a good run to Tonnerre. Surprisingly it starts to rain heavily just as we get there.  There is plenty of mooring, and absolutely no-one else is moored.  We lunch, take the dogs for a relatively quick walk and hide away from the rain. The TC arrives about 2.30pm.  Quite separately we and Brian & Pat explore the town, while the rain has died down, and keep bumping into each other.

This is actually a very interesting town, much more than we expected.  The medieval hospice turned into a 19^th century hospital is a marvel to see and visit.  And the Fosse Dionne, an ancient spring which was a shrine in Celtic times, is just something you should not miss.

But first we walked the half mile / kilometre into town.  This crosses three bridges as here the Armancon has divided into three different streams.  Today they are very full and raging.

The Armancon at Tonnerre and its three divided streams

All Bustle at 5pm (The Yonne is closed)

Suddenly there are boats all over the place.  We said that the season has now started, but this is much more than we expected.   By 6pm there are ten boats all moored up.  They include all different nationalities – Australian, Belgian, British, Swiss, Spanish, German and even French.  What’s happened?  Well in fact with all the water coming down the Armancon the Yonne (into which it feeds) is in flood and no boats are allowed down on to the river.  In effect it is closed.  This means that all the hire boats who might have gone to Auxerre – Le Boat at Migennes, Nichols at Brienon, and France Afloat at St Florentin – can only send their holiday makers up the canal.  Well, at least it makes for a nice party atmosphere.  And the lady at the Capitainerie is very relaxed and helpful, making everyone comfortable and welcome.

One Branch of the Armancon in Full Flow

There is just one small downside to all this activity.  Some of those coming in the next day make a meal of it, use bow thrusters only to steer and moor up.  Not pleasant to human or canine ears.  And when we ask, can’t you use the engine, one surprising answer is “I don’t know how to!”  We won’t mention any nationalities.  No wonder they weren’t allowed down on the river in flood.

The Fosse Dionne and the Underground Lakes

On the Monday it is all full of the election.  The Yonne (department) voted Sarkozy, but Tonnerre (where we are) and Migennes (where we are headed) voted Hollande.   But once having reviewed all the voting it seems the south, south west, massif, Brittany and the north outvoted the Loire, centre and east and south east with Burgundy and Normandy split.  That’s far too simple and we had better leave French politics to the French, so we go back to being tourists.

The “Fosse Dionne” is a vauclusian spring, and a little like the springs at the “Roman” baths in bath.  It is amazing in colour, and fed by underground lakes.  This was sacred to the ancient Celts (Dionne = Divine) who worshipped water second only to the sun.  It is fed by underground lakes so far traced 360 metres back horizontally and 61 metres down.  Alas between the 1960s and 1990s they lost three divers trying to trace the source, so alas no further diving is now allowed.  In the 18^th century this was also a famous lavoir (and no doubt a source of many old wives’ tales and tricoteuses).  But it is exceptional, and amazing to view from so many angles.

The Fosse Dionne

The Dionne Lakes and Dives

Eating at the Ferme de Fosse Dionne

After spending some time at the pool itself we decide to eat at the guest house attached.  The menu looks good – only local Burgundy country cooking.  We get some strange looks as we walked in as we should have booked and pre-ordered, but then they are quite willing to serve us.  The host is very keen for us to have snails for the first course. When we say we have tasted them and they don’t do much for us, it is suggested that we have never tasted them cooked in crème fraiche and local cheese.   True, but we are still not tempted.  But the tomate tartin and feuilletes epinard which we do have as starters, and the duck and fish to follow are excellent.  It will be worth coming here again, and ordering properly.

The Ferme with the Church High Above

The Ancient Hospice

Tonnerre’s most famous attraction is its ancient hospice.  This was built and created in the 14th century at the behest of Margaret of Burgundy, to feed and heal the poor.  It is a vast building, and interesting to see this built as a hospice not as a church, though there are, naturally from this period, religious aspects to it.  Margaret’s tomb is here but was destroyed during the Revolution but its replacement from the 1820s is nevertheless impressive.

In the 19^th Century a meridian was etched across the floor of the main hall, which remains quite an interesting feature.  In the late 19^th century this became a working hospital again, and the museum attached shows the various equipment and tools from just over a century ago.  Both impressive and scary.  Well worth the visit.

Margaret of Burgundy with the Model of Her Hospice

The Peace and Beauty of Flogny

After the excitement of Tonnerre, which we really enjoyed we move to moor in the real countryside with nothing around at Flogny-la-Chappelle. Just as we are mooring one of the boats from Tonnerre moors behind us, just for lunch in their case.  This is a family from Mallorca.  Having explained yesterday to them that we don’t really speak any Spanish, they seem really cheered by our “Bon Dia” today.   The islands of course speak Catalan rather than Castilian.  Off they go, and we stay in beautiful peace, though the kennels just down the road can respond in chorus whenever Topsy rejoices in song.  Just in the middle of nowhere, this is delightful.

Honey and Chablis at Germigny

The next day we head on to St Florentin, just a few miles away, but you have to pass two locks at Germigny, which always offer lock-keeper cultivated honey and selections of Chablis.  Oh! This is a terrible place!!

All Quiet at St Florentin

We reach St Florentin by lunch time, but this time we just laze in the port and walk the dogs.  We’ll revisit the hilltop town another time.  There is a beautiful 1972 TR6 parked next to one of the boats, off to an oldies’ rally at Laon.  So we just relax and gossip and walk and read.

  Old Friends at Duchy

Almost at the end of our journey now.  The next day we are going down to Brienon (sur Armançon) where we will rest for a few days before leaving the boat at Migennes.  But before we get there we pass the Duchy lock which seems to have three lock-keepers, until we realise that two are Brian and Pat having a (long) morning walk.  After all the rain we’ve been through they do seem to be enjoying this.  And the lock-keeper has two almost fully trained professional assistants, so we get through at record speed.  Lock-keepers and photographers, as they later present us with three marvellous photographs of our progress downstream.

Heading for the Lock at Duchy

Finally in the Lock

Fun and Games at Brienon

And so we arrive at Brienon.  We try to moor against the empty space at the main quay but it is too shallow.  The port has been privatised and is being renovated but not it seems on the things that matter.  Any way we find some deeper water just a little further along against a lovely grassy bank with some good bollards. 

It is still only 1130am and after lunch Glyn will cycle the 9 kms into Migennes to get the car.  As we take the girls for a walk we meet Colin and Jane on the Francisca, a very old small Dutch barge which they have kept amazingly well.  They come from Brightlingsea in Essex, and Jane worked at the University so we find lots in common from two decades ago.  Colin is a boat man through and through, so lots to learn here.  Much more importantly (well not really)   he has his car here and is going into Migennes after lunch, and as it is already getting very hot why doesn’t he give me a lift.  Car fetched, all idyllic.  We invite Colin & Jane, and Pat & Brian who are now back from their walk, for drinks at 1800. We loved Brienon last year, and are pleased to be back.

But it never pays to get complacent.  At about 5.30pm just as we are preparing for our guests a guy turns and says we can’t moor where we are: we have to move back 15 metres.  We explain it’s too shallow.  Well you can’t moor here, it’s Nichols’ land, and he dashes off to get the Capitaine.   They collude on insisting we move, but the Capitaine agrees we can do it later in the evening.  Except he’s back at 5.55pm saying, no, we have to now, and he and the Nichols’ man start hauling our boat for us, knocking over the washing just as guests are arriving.   All of us are amazed by the stupidity and aggression they show.  We don’t let it put us off our drinks, but during the evening everyone has a silly experience which makes this place very sad.

There’s lots more about the experiences at Brienon (water taps removed so you can’t get water even though you’ve paid for it, electricity time switches that go off in the middle of the night, charging for facilities they don’t actually provide) - so much to make you laugh and cry.  Nearly all the boaters going through feel the bureaucracy, costs, and general silliness has turned what was a nice port into a horror story. Not a thought about customer relations.  And in the long term, people just won’t stop here.

The Tadham Castle Ahoy

Any way, we had a nice day on the Sunday retracing by car our journey down from Pont d’Ouche, and great lunch Chez Bryony.  On Monday we moved on to the port at Migennes for the last few days.  Not as outwardly pleasant as Brienon, but so much more relaxed, comfortable and welcoming, and less costly, than Brienon.  Then we hand the boat over to Simon, Roger and pals at the boatyard, and off home for three weeks.  

Loved Tonnerre, Flogny, St Flo, and Migennes – and let’s try and forget about Brienon

Postscript.

As we couldn’t stay on the boat the last night we arranged a Logis at Mortagne-au-Perche in the Orne department of Normandy, 4 hours from the Yonne but only 2 hours from Caen.   This was pot luck out of the Logis book, but what luck.  The evening meal was just fantastic (sorry to make you all jealous).  And the walks and views around really fabulous.

The farmer sows his early morning seed at Mortagne

While the cows rest peacefully

And Mortagne nestles on the hillside opposite

The Armançon Valley- Montbard to Tanlay (30 April -5 May)

The Land Of Buffon

So we now finally leave the summit hills of the Burgundy after our very quick descent, and move on as the canal follows the Armancon river to its confluence with the Yonne.  But today we follow the River Brenne until it joins the Armancon at Montbard just 13kms and 9 locks away.  At least the locks are more spaced out now.  The Tadham Castle is staying a few days longer as Brian has done his back in, so we travel on our own.

Montbard is the town of the Comte de Buffon, the Intendant of the King’s Gardens in the 18^th century and a famous natural historian, as well as innovative industrialist.  One of the first things we pass as we set off is Les-Granges-sous-Grignon where he was born.  It is a delightful little spot.

Les Granges-sous-Grignon

Courcelles-les-Montbard

We then pass the hillside village of Courcelles after the fifth lock which really marks our entry into Montbard country.  We seem to have entered the land of mini-chateaux, but it looks impressive hovering above the canal.

Courcelles Rising above the Canal

Mooring Up

We travel quickly, with a change of lock-keeper every two locks, and each is very quick and efficient.  We have done 8 of the 9 locks before 12 noon, though we won’t be able to make the final lock into the town before lunch time.  We moor up at the halte nautique just after passing under the main Paris-Lyon-Marseilles TGV line. This is an old industrial wharf, easy to moor and plenty of space (well it could 12 boats and is empty) and we can rest here while we visit and look at the port beyond the lock.  In theory the halte nautique has electricity but it doesn’t work.

We walk up to the port and give the girls a run.  It is slightly prettier and has half a dozen Locaboats moored, as well as one large tug.  This leaves two moorings, but one is shallow and short (too short for us) and on the other the bank is breaking the wooden shuttering, with water overflowing in places.  Reluctantly we agree we will have to stay at the old industrial port, which is not too bad, but the trains right behind us are a bit of worry.  The town itself looks quite attractive, but moorings without any services at 15 Euros sound a bit steep. 

On the other hand we visit the Tourist Office which is very helpful, and gives us information on some rural walks.  Tomorrow is May 1st, a national holiday in France and even the locks are closed, so we have to stay here at least two nights.

Montbard with Its Famous Tower Standing in the Park above the Town

We find a delightful little walk of our own for the evening, and the fisherman all around us add some colour delight to the old port.  Unfortunately as the evening draws on some steady and then heavy rain sets in, so that’s us – and the fishermen – for the day.

We don’t have too early a night, but the trains passing through regularly at all hours, and some early morning industrial clatter (even on May Day!) upset the dogs which is the only serious drawback/  And no-one collects the mooring fee.

 A Delightful May Day Bank Holiday Walk

After walking the dogs and doing some house cleaning we set off at about 11am on a 5 mile (8kms) walk along the canal and then up through the village of Nogent-les-Montbard and then up higher into forestry and along a lovely track back to Montbard.  Our little overnight frustration melts away in the warm sun and lovely countryside.  The chateau in Nogent is being done up, but looks quite beautiful in its slightly dilapidated and rustic setting.

The Renovation of the Chateau at Nogent-le-Grand

For the first time for a while we have a serious climb to make.  It is not too heavy and we need some practice as most of our walks have been along the flats linked to the canal.  Our next turning point is supposed to be at the Fontaines d’Argent, but we are not sure we find it, though a rushing stream seems to be more or less at the appointed place.  There is even a seat here which after the climb regrettably we are pleased to take advantage of.  It is delightful and also gives a beautiful view over the valley.

No Shortage of Water Here – The Fontaines d’Argent – But No Money or Silver Either 

We retire for lunch.  Isn’t it interesting how all the French fishermen (and women) completely disappear when the anointed hour of noon arrives?  We say this is no time to be on French roads, but it seems a good time to be out fishing, with no competition, unless it’s just that the fish go home at lunch time too.  Certainly of our fishermen had caught a real good sized fish before we set off at 11am, but at 1.15pm – not a soul to be seen.

We laze and read after lunch, but just above us on the hillside housing estate a Labour Day celebration is taking place, with gentle folk music adding to the pleasure of the afternoon.

Montbard and the Buffon Park

After a lazy afternoon we decide to take the Tourist Office’s other suggestion, walk through the town and visit the Buffon Park which surrounds the church on the top of a hill.  This turns out to be much more delightful than we had expected, and the broad path spirals up through beautifully kept greenery, and then comes down to other side of the town, with the fast running River Brenne and a lovely fountain in the middle of the small square.  We really have enjoyed our bank holiday here, despite the initial frustrations.

For Every Pleasure There is a Penalty

If 1st May seemed to herald the final beginning of Spring, 2^nd May was to bring us back to reality.  At about 5am we could hear beginning to settle.  By 7am when we take the dogs out it is sufficiently steady that we put their coats on them to keep them dry.  Collies don’t like coats (they are for silly poodles) but this morning even they are happy to wear them.

By 9am as we move off it is definitely raining very hard.  At the first lock we pass the Carolyn which has the priority of the lock as they are travelling upstream (“amont” in French).  They came into Montbard yesterday and did walk over to see us, but we were out on one of our walks.  A nice exchange though in the driving rain as we go in different directions.

Our objectives today are the Grand Forge at Buffon for lunchtime (5 locks and 7 kms) and then Cry-sur-Armancon for the end of the day (another 5 locks and 8 kms)/

The Grand Forge at Buffon

The weather gets worse.  By 11am just before we reach the Grand Forge everyone is totally soaked, and the rain is falling hard.  The only saving grace is that there is little wind so no driving rain.  But it’s still very wet/

We moor up at Buffon with ease and the Grand Forge is just 100 metres away.  Built in the 1760s, we guess that Georges-Louis Leclerc (who became the Comte de Buffon and also a member of the Academie Francaise) is something akin to French industrial history that Abraham Darby was to Britain, having designed, built and run a very modern iron making furnace.  They have restored the forge and its works over the last 30 years and it is quite well done.  This is well worth seeing even in the driving rain.  Alas Mr Leclerc’s elevation to the peerage did not do too much good as it only made an appointment for his sole heir and successor with Mme Guillotine.

The Mill Wheel of the Grand Forge at Buffon

The forge drew water from the Armancon (the Burgundy canal was not built until later until 1775-1834) for its main source of power.  It combined the operations of furnace, refinery and foundry, hence a major innovation for the mid 18th century.

The Foundry Furnace at Buffon

This establishment covering a couple of hectares (more than 5 acres) and including workers’ dwellings was quite a celebrity development in its time.  And the main forge has a viewing gallery which itself is of some interest.

The Viewing Gallery to the Main Forge at Buffon

Crossing the Borders

We escape the rain for a brief lunch and then set off for Cry.  We thought the rain was easing off but every time we think that it comes back harder, and with a vengeance.   We are now in the Armancon valley proper and shortly cross the departmental boundary from Cote d’Or to the Yonne.  The trees here are lush, and must be wonderful in autumn.  They are quite impressive even in the driving rain, though sadly we are too pre-occupied to take photographs.

We can moor up at Cry by 3pm. And though the rain eases a fraction as we do so, from 4pm onwards it comes in hard again.  This is a really good “green mooring”.  No electricity but good banks and bollards, and a water supply (do we really need it in this rain?).  And the girls can run about naturally on the banks in the open countryside and grass.  They do so for 20-30 minutes then prefer the warmth and comfort of the fire.  Our priorities after mooring up were alas cup of coffee / tea, hot showers, change of clothes and lighting the wood burner.  What would we do without it?  No television or internet signals here so we are beautifully on our own.  Book and DVD time this evening!

By 7pm the rain finally eases off and we can walk the dogs, and also go into the village.  It is quite small, and the cafe is closed.  However there is life as youngsters run around and park their bicycles.  But the dominating view is of the Armancon river raging around the village and under the causeway which spans the road between river and canal.

Family life at Cry-sur-Armançon

The Armançon rages past the village

“The Season” Starts Now

It’s a nice morning.  This week the weather seems to see-saw – beautiful on Tuesday, horrid yesterday, and nice again today.  We start the day by taking the dogs for a good walk up into the forested hills behind the mooring.  Then off we go.

The wooded hills above our mooring

The first lock is only 500 metres away but we have to wait as an hotel boat (the Horizon II whose mooring we could use at Venarey) is coming up the canal no doubt backs to its base. And as we leave the lock a hire boat is waiting to go upstream in our place.  After the second lock we reach Ravieres.  Here there are three boats all manoeuvring and active, and one, crewed by a Belgian couple, falls in behind us and locks with us the next four locks to Ancy.  They are always at the back of their boat so we don’t get a chance to chat.  Meanwhile a further hire boat passes us in the other direction.  Yesterday we didn’t see a boat.  Is it the weather, is this an area where holiday boats now frequent, or has “the season” finally started, we ask ourselves?  Well, it is May.  It is good to see a few more people on the canal.

The effects of yesterday are though all around us.  The Armancon, just to the side of the canal, has broken its banks in oh so many places, and at one lock the keeper has lost all his garden under water.

This was the Lock-keeper’s Garden

We ask the lock-keeper where we can moor as we won’t be able to make last lock to Ancy before midday.  Don’t worry, she says, I’ll see you through, and we get to Ancy all moored by 12.30.

Ancy-le-Franc

Ancy is good mooring, with all facilities, and free.  The town is 10 minutes walk away, but quite pleasant.  We just have a stroll around, get some bread and patisseries, and look at (but do not visit) the well-advertised and newly-refurbished chateau.  Chateaux are becoming a little bit like cathedrals: unless there is something exceptional we have begun to see too many.

Later on the Tres Joly moors up behind us.  Max and Sue are an Australian couple from Subiaco in Perth (wow! Not New South Waleans or Victorians). They have spent seven summers on the canals in France, but sadly are now on their way to St-Jean-de-Losne to sell the boat as they need to spend more time at home.  The day remains beautiful and we can have some lovely evening walks along the canal, if only Shady would come with us.

The refurbished Chateau at Ancy-le-Franc

19 +18 ≤ 38.5

Ancy is very nice but we decide to move on.  Just ahead of us along the canal the Edwina Rose is moored.  They have spent a couple of days, but had to sty off the main moorings earlier as these were taken by hotel boats.  We chat as we take the girls for their early morning walk.  They too have booked the next lock for 9am.   Well, there should room enough for us both, but adding our two lengths together there will be about a foot (30 cm) in front, a foot between and a foot behind, and that is all.  We agree to think about it at the first lock, and see what the lock-keeper says.  We ought to conserve water, but then again, hardly today!  But it’s easier for the lock-keeper doing us together.

At the first lock the lady keeper from yesterday waves us both in.  It goes OK but it is tight.  Similarly at the second lock, but the keeper asks if we want to travel separately.  We both say it’s no problem.  But as we travel the next pound we feel that while we have no problems we are making it difficult for the Edwina Rose, which has no bollard to attach to at the front and dare come back into us.   We call the Ancy lock-keeper who has seen us through the last few locks (and who kindly gave us her mobile number last night) and say we think it might be better if we let the Edwina Rose go ahead.  We’ll moor up for half an hour and do some chores.  She agrees this might be best, and will call her colleague to say we won’t reach him until 11am.  She has been so understanding and helpful (and also happy and chatty).

But at the next lock the keeper is first awaiting another upstream boat (we really do seem to be seeing lots more boats now) and this slow us down.  At the fourth lock we say to the keeper that we don’t think we can make the fifth (after which there are some moorings) by midday.  And he agrees.  Not possible.  Then as we are chatting he says, OK, it’s me at the next lock, and I’ll get you through.  Did we say something nice, or did he work out better to get us through rather than have us champing at the bit at 1pm.  Probably a bit of both.  He liked the dogs.  He has five terriers, and we talk about wild boar hunting.

Five More Locks and Then?

It’s still good weather today, and now in the afternoon it is getting quite warm indeed.  At the second lock there is a team which looks mother and son, though son is doing most of the work.  They have a 12 year old setter, and we talk about her dog and ours, as they eye each other form boat and lock side, but all behave properly.  Beautiful day today, we say, not like Wednesday.  We haven’t been able to get TV or any decent Internet single since Montbard.  Haven’t you seen the Meteo, she says.  We query!  It’s very heavy (“lourd”) today she says, and before the evening’s out there will be “orages”.   Wind and rain, we say?  Oh yes, and thunder and lightning, and hail!  What, on this lovely day?

Donner and Blitzen

We get to Tanlay, our destination for the next two days, nicely by 3.30pm.  As we moor up it starts to blacken.  Before we can do anything it starts to rain.  Then the lightning.  Then the thunder.   Then the hail.  It lasts for three hours, but amazingly we travelled in perfect weather.  Who was that lady – a goddess or a witch?  Or just someone who has seen the Meteo?  By 7.30pm we can (we hope) finally take the girls out for a walk.  They have been cowering for three hours under anywhere they can hide, and are now very happy to go out.

Beatrix Potter Land

When we finally go out we find opposite an actual narrowboat (a real narrow boat not pretend like ours) with Tony and Doreen Davis from Weybridge on their way to Strasbourg.  We say we hope to follow them next year.  They are on a mooring with power but are off first thing in the morning so we agree to switch over and take their slot so we can plug in.  Their boat is called the Jeremus Piscator.  Is that a Beatrix Potter character we ask, and they laugh Yes.  God what a strange crew we all are: Latin, Beatrix Potter and Narrowboats in the Burgundian countryside.

Little and Large – the Jeremus Piscator (before the gap far right ) 

in front of the hotel boat C’est la Vie

Tanlay is a small place, quite beautiful, but sadly seeming to lose its facilities.  The shopping was quite limited, no bank now, and essentially you have to go Tonnerre for everything.

Before we went out in the morning we check with the hotel boat next to us whether he is going to move today.  The mooring rings are not well placed are ware reliant on a strained mizzen rope to stop us moving backwards.  If his sheer size moves out it night not hold.  They don’t understand our French.  That’s because they include a Chelsea supporter from Woolwich (how can anyone form Woolwich not support the Arsenal) and a Polish lad who comes from near Płoty (twinned with Niebüll) who is not sure he is more amazed that we know where Płoty is or that we know how to pronounce it.

All quiet and peaceful.  We decide that we’ll visit the chateau in the afternoon, and eat galettes and crêpes in the cafe 10 metres from the boat which says it does “specialités Bretons”.   And then the Tadham Castle and Edwina Rose come to join the party!

Back to the Colignys

The chateau is quite interesting, but not we think especially special, with rather a mish mash of items from different centuries.  However this was the home of the Coligny family (of our beloved Chatillon-Coligny) and Admiral Coligny himself lived here before Catherine de Medici had him fixed just before the Massacre of St Bartholomew, but you should never fall out with a woman who manages to be wife, mother, or mother-in-law to five kings!!

The only good photo we get here is a very rare one of us together, courtesy of Brian and Pat.

Together in the Courtyard of the Coligny Chateau at Tanlay (Photo 18).

The galettes and crepes in the evening were very good (we recommend this simple cafe) but don’t order your puddings with your main meal.  They come hotter if you order separately.  But before we go there Andy and Chris from the Edwina Rose come over and have a glass of wine and a long chat about their experiences on the Rhone and the Midi. We learn so much and still have so much more to learn.