Canalling In France (September / October 2011)
The Return to Sens and Montargis
Saturday 24 September (A Bad day for Fishermen)
We leave the boatyard at 8.40 with a little help from Mark, and head for the downstream lock, intending to make Villeneuve-s-Y today. Simon says it’s only 15 mins to the lock so we don’t allow too much. But it is slightly misty this morning so we will go slowly. Five-to-Nine and lock is in sight, but even before 9.00 the lock-keeper arrives and starts to open the gates, so very slowly we head into the lock lane. This is a good start to the day.
Well, it was. Around the bend from the lock moorings, out of sight, some idiot fisherman has four separate lines out not only in front of the lock, but stretching out right over the lock lanes into midstream before the weir. As we see him Linda feels his invisible lines catch the front of the boat. He screams “Arrete”. What does he think we can do? Already the boat is in as much reverse as possible, without pulling out into the weir stream. Why didn’t you stop, he screams, as one of his lines snaps and flies back, which if it caught one of us in the face could have done serious damage.
Glyn screams back in his best French, what do you think you’re doing fishing over the lock lane right in front of the lock. He recognises we are “Anglais” and comes out with a stream of abusive expletives about the English and why don’t we stay in England, some of which, unfortunately, we understand, and some, thankfully, we don’t. He is very angry. We sympathise that he has lost some lines, but what an idiot. Stay in mid-channel, he says. Does he think boats are going to head for the weir? It’s all not worth arguing with him. We finally release, disentangle or in one case cut his other lines. He is still very angry and remonstrates with the lock-keeper who has begun to wonder why we are not entering the lock. When the fisherman gets to him we can see he too is asking why he was fishing there. We get into the lock, and the lock-keeper kindly makes the effort to walk over to us and apologise.
Not a good start to the day, and we are both now agitated. We always slow down and take care with fishermen, and we certainly don’t aim to antagonise the French.
The next two locks pass without incident, and we travel past Joigny with its Saturday market looking beautiful as ever.
In the third lock we check that the fourth remains open to 12.30. Yes, confirms the lock-keeper. He is young man, not looking very happy but also very contemplative. It is beautiful day. Perhaps he wanted to be with his wife, girlfriend or partner. As we leave the lock he announces that he is doing the next and so “Depechez-vous”, and then in English “Hurry up”. We had been cruising gently at about 8kms up to now (and 6kms in the cut) but looking at the time and his sorry state we decide to oblige and cruise at 13kms (even though the river limit is 12kms). We get to the next lock at just after 12 noon, and get out at about 12.20. Unfortunately another boat is waiting to go up. He could refuse it, but in fact he doesn’t. Nice guy, just having an unhappy day.
Having raced that lock we have nowhere to moor for lunch, cannot possibly make the next lock by 12.30, and for 13.30 we will have we to go very slowly indeed. So to the opposite extreme. But this is actually very delightful. The scenery is gorgeous. The sun and warmth are beautiful. And we toddle along at about 4kms. It is marvellous, though sadly we are passing Villevaliers and were recommended a restaurant here. The mooring is not good but it would have been worth it for the restaurant. Unfortunately it was closed evenings on our way up, and now closed Saturday (or at least this Saturday) on our way down. But it is a beautiful place as well.
We take the last lock for the day with a very bright-eyed equally young man as the eclusier, who couldn’t do anything more to please you, and chats about where we are going. He is doing the lock after Villeneuve, but as we are staying the night he says I’ll see you in the morning.
We are mooring up at about 2.30pm. Not a bad day, even with the first incident. As we moor a couple of boats come racing out of the lock ahead and bounce our ropes. One of Linda’s flies off just as she is pulling us in, and she goes flying backwards, knocking her head quite badly. She has to lie down and clear the blood. She says she is alright but it’s a nasty gash. She insists on only cleaning it and resting. Glyn sees her as well as possible, walks the dogs and does the essential shopping. He finds a doctors but they say are closed and their notice only says “Dial 15” for an ambulance, and Linda wont’ want that.
We just sit to finally rest at about 4pm, with Linda still a little dazed, when there are loud bangs on the back of the boat. It’s the local fishing club. They are having a “concours de peche”, and they want more of the quay. Can we reverse about 20 metres to make more space for them? (We think, God, there are only 50 metres for boats and 400 metres without boats. If it hadn’t been for the morning, we wouldn’t have thought that: it’s not an unreasonable request, but Linda is hardly fit to re-handle the ropes. Very gently we do it, relying on the engine rather than towing. Not our best day with fishermen.
By 7.30pm, and after eating a little, Linda says she feels a bit better, and wants to come for the dogs’ last walk. We walk through the park, and then get to the High Street via the very beautiful Mairie. The High Street has two gated arches at each end, with about 400 metres in between. Every sort of shop you want and at least six ladies’ hairdressers. But it is very attractively set out, with many older and as well as newer premises mixing well together, as well as functional. And just five minutes from the quay. We get to the back to the boat for another beautiful sunset.
Sunday 25 September (Sunny Summer Sunday Afternoon in the Parks)
Next morning we have arranged with the young lock-keeper to be there at 9am, and it is only 5 minutes. The fishermen and women (in France a good third are women who enjoy this sport as much as the men) are all getting in place when the dogs are taken out at 7.30, and well established by 8.30. We wish them good fishing and advise we are going to turn the boat. Absolutely no problem, they say, but we also manage a perfect turn not disturbing their lines in any way. The lock-keeper has it all open and prepared, and off we go.
Three locks and just 16 kms to Sens, which we take very gently and enjoy the beautiful countryside. Although we are now approaching a more industrial and commercial stretch of the Yonne, we see only one such barge today. We arrive in Sens at just after 12 noon, and have an easy mooring, again right in the Centre of town. We have lunch and a rest, and discuss the rest of the day. We decide the girls need some good walks. When here previously the TI recommended two parks. We tried one which was very good. We decided to try the other this time.
So at 1.45 we set out. It required a walk along the quay and then through various twisting back streets. These gave an insight into Sens however, with its greatly varied mix of housing, though overall quite good.
The park was very different from that on the north side of town. Probably larger, this was much more a botanical garden, but also with many walks and also lots of play spaces for children and youth. Overall it was excellent, with only one marring aspect. Dogs were not allowed off leads. Nevertheless we covered much of the park and it was a delight. And we did find a quiet corner where we could go French and disobey the rules for 10 minutes. We got back to the boat at 4pm, all four of us very hot and dog tired. The park was full of families, and also couples of all ages. It was very warm and sunny and it was great afternoon. There was plenty of shade in the park, but not on streets going there and back. But this park is a major asset to the city.
A Quiet Corner in the Botanical Gardens at Sens: Dogs May Not Roam Here!
After a rest and read we also decided we take the dogs to the other park in the evening. Less formally set out, but plenty of wild areas around a major lake where the dogs could just run free. A perfect alternative to the botanical gardens. We set off at 6.30 for this walk (a little cooler) but went via the main street which we had not fully seen before. This is a fantastic pedestrianised area, with almost every shop you want. We crossed the main square outside the cathedral, bustling with people and cafes, all enjoying the late summer evening.
When we reached the tree’d promenade which surrounds the town centre, which also adds much to its beauty, a full scale circus was in process. It was busy then, but even busier when we returned at 8pm, with joyous families all pouring out.
We were well tired, but this had been a glorious day in a wonderful city on a beautiful summer’s day, even if a little too hot, and technically in autumn. The girls enjoyed their walks, and finally Topsy was learning not to pull. But they wanted their beds when we got back. Which we did too, after a good supper and some excellent grapefruit rosé.
Monday 26 September (Two Sides of Sens before the Leisure and Commercial Waterways)
Up early Monday morning before setting off on the more industrial waterway north to the Seine. Glyn took the dogs for an early morning walk around the circular promenade. What was sad even in this beautiful town was to see three homeless sleepers on park benches with all their belongings in plastic bags. It brings you up sharp after the enjoyable day yesterday. Linda headed to the market and the boulangerie, which gave just the other side of this bustling, prosperous city.
The journey north took us once again past Pont-sur-Yonne and the Deviation de Courlon (Courlon cut in English). We expected to see more commercial boats north of Sens, working the quarries and silos, and we did meet a few, but it was surprisingly quiet overall. The one we did get locked with was our good old friend the Albatross again, but luckily he went ahead of us rather than hovering over our keel!
Oh! No! That Albatross Again!
Mooring up at Mizy, which once more was our overnight stop before hitting the Seine, was again difficult. This is sad as this is a beautiful area, and there are plenty of erstwhile moorings which have been allowed to decline. But again we managed successfully to find a suitable haven, shaken only a little as two or three grain and gravel barges pass by.
It was great for walking the dogs, and as lovely quiet and warm evening.
Tuesday 27 September (Bouncing with the Big Boys)
We set off promptly at 9am for the three locks and 14kms to reach the Seine. The river was surprisingly quiet. We kept our speed at 1400 revs (about 8 kms/hr) as we saw no need either to rush or burn fuel for the sake of it. The locks with sloping sides were well mastered, with no problems now.
As we moved from the Yonne into the Seine we passed two boats making good speed at the junction, one entering the Yonne, and the other continuing up the Petite Seine. It was interesting about how the different washes bounced us in slightly different directions, but only gently.
The 4 kms down to the lock at Varennes went very gently with no other boats in sights, until we reached the lock. There an amazingly large tug and barge-pushing tug together almost filled this extremely wide and long lock all on their own. Realising the mass which would come out towards us we steered into one of the side bays inside where the 1000 toners moor, waiting for the lock.
Weren’t we glad that did that! The French tug and barge cruised out slowly and gracefully, with a salute from the captain and no distress to us at all. But, just are we preparing to come into the main stream to enter the lock a 700 tonner from a nameless different nationality just came from nowhere racing past to take his priority place in the lock. He did toss us. But luckily we could just hold back in our haven while this road hog roared on. We checked on the VHF with the lock master, who confirmed we could now enter. We have to say the organisation and the communications at Varennes are absolutely perfect. They looked after us and talked us through with great charm and care.
We let the road hog speed out of the lock and when he had gone we once again set off keeping to the right bank channel at a modest 8kms, aided by an additional 2kms from the flow of the river. It was again quiet in this sometimes pretty, sometimes industrial and boring stretch of water.
But not for long! As we approached the EDF Montereau power station the number of boats sailing upstream began to increase. And these were very big boys, again hitting the 1000 ton mark. Coming upstream ourselves on a Sunday we had seen almost no boats. Downstream on a working day we could now see how the Seine is used. We lost count but estimated over 30 industrial barges passing us in just over an hour. Their wash bounced us about a bit. But keeping a reasonable distance this was quite manageable. In just one case, where a 1000 tonner was no doubt pushing the 20kms speed limit, we had a lively sea-like motion, but overall it was a relatively easy passage with good experience, even if a little heavy on the tiller arm.
Just Passing a Few Boats on the Seine!
We had joked coming into the Seine 10 days earlier that it was difficult to realise that we had actually arrived in the main river. Now we had to find the exit, and this was even more difficult. Maybe the Loing river and canal are not regarded as a major waterway off the Seine, but it is a significant waterway and there were no markings whatsoever. We didn’t miss it, but it took some looking out for. And then there we were, once again in quieter waters, with the beautiful “Teresa” to welcome us home.
The Blessed "Teresa" welcomes us back to the Loing!
There were two automatic upstream locks to get us onto the canal, both quite deep and we knew that getting mooring ropes from the bottom of the lock would not be easy. The first had a lockkeeper, but unlike at Varennes it was more difficult to get signal to him that we needed assistance. Only when a second boat arrived (the Garance, also based at Briare) and he had to re-open the gates, did he get out to take our ropes from deep in the lock.
The second lock was automatic and not manned. The Garance came in behind us and started the automatic filling before there was any chance of our getting our rope on. With no room for movement with the two boats in the lock, and with the water coming swirling in, this was not fun. We avoided collisions but learned a lesson that in future we are never to be two boats in a lock without our mooring ropes on, even if it takes 10 minutes to get them attached.
The rest of the journey should be simple. Just two more locks before a gentle moor up for the night at Episy. We did these with the Garance, who then continued onwards. What surprised us was how many industrial barges were active at or moored at Episy. In total we saw another seven that evening. A very busy day.
So we naughtily opted for an evening meal out at the Cafe du Canal, all of just 60m away, across the lock. Only our second meal out (so far) on this trip, so we felt well deserved. And we well rewarded. It was a quite varied menu, and the food well presented. A relaxing evening before the final walk with the girls, after a very full day.
Wednesday 28 September (All Quiet at Nemours)
A gentle rise the next morning, and a lovely stroll with the girls. The late Indian summer continues, so we have beautifully warm and sunny weather. The journey today to Nargis (30 kms and 10 locks) may sound a lot but it is easy going. We are travelling on our own now, with friendly, organised lock-keepers, who move us on with great efficiency. The sun is shining. The river approach to Nemours in the brilliant sunshine makes it look a lovely city. We must make a longer visit here sometime. But we have a distance to make today so carry on for lunch at Beaumoulin, which is a delightful where we can relax and the dogs can run.
In the afternoon we pass through Souppes, which is perhaps the end of the industrial part of the Loing, and attached to the Port of Paris. By and large this as far as the big barges come, though some do go to Montargis. But from now on we are in leisure boat country, except for the odd hotel barge.
We arrive at Nargis before 4pm, still in beautiful sunshine. The dogs can run around as we moor up. The only small downside here is that we have to moor to a sloping quay, so have to get our zigzag fenders under the boat to protect the bottom from the masonry and also to stop the boat sliding up into a steady list. Fiddly, but it takes only 10 minutes.
It is lovely evening at Nargis. We walk into the village for some bread and one or two other essentials. We enjoy the scenery to our own delight. Topsy stays out on the green beyond the tow path, enjoying her freedom in the sun. France is beautiful.
Thursday 29 September (Foret de Domaine de Châlette)
Today we will ease ourselves the final 10 kms of the Loing and just 5 kms of the Canal de Briare, to get ourselves back to Montargis. It is easy locking. We delay an hour between Cepoy and Châlette-sur-Loing to take the dogs for walk through the woods and do some weekly cleaning. On the northward journey Châlette had just appeared to be the industrial edge of Montargis, but this spot shows it also has some beautiful countryside around it, and the woodland of the Foret Domaniale is well managed. We are surprised how many are using it on a Thursday morning, including serious nature study from the local school.
And so we arrive in Montargis, again beautiful in the autumn sun. The harbour master has to be contacted to find a mooring, which alas thus requires mooring twice, and a half-kilometre reverse which merely served to show our wonderful steering skills.
Although in the centre of town there are easy countryside walks along the canal which the dogs enjoy greatly. They are certainly not going to demean themselves in the intriguing specially-provided “doggie garden” which looks more like a one-person prison exercise yard. But we are surprised how many do use it.
Friday 30 September (Optimistic Police and Ravishing Dominicaines)
Today is a day just staying in Montargis. We need to shop and clean the boat. Tonight Cecile (who dances with the Folk Abeille with links with Linda’s Malmesbury Morris side) is joining us for a meal. And tomorrow Pete and Jan are joining us from England for the gentle cruise down to Briare.
First job after dog walking and breakfast is to get all dog hairs out of the carpets. However before we start the local police arrive to collect our mooring fee. The “town police” often do this in France, so it’s nothing wrong that we have done.
The local Bobbies are a very friendly pair and we quickly fall into discussing the Rugby World Cup. They are convinced it will be a France-Australia final, and that France has every chance of winning. We discuss the merits of the various teams, and finally they admit that Wales have possibly some chance (but not much).
Before finishing the cleaning and going shopping we chat to our Belgian neighbours, and get from then the advantages of mooring in Montargis.
Shopping in town is quite good. There is no major supermarket in the town centre, but the small one that does exist is almost adequate. Luckily fruit and vegetable shops and others make up for the weakness in the supermarket.
Before going off shopping Greg and Cecilia arrive in the Vrouwe Catharina. We wondered if they had passed us as they were only a day behind us leaving Migennes and meant to be on a faster turnaround to get to the Briare. They made the Seine with their reconditioned engine, and after an overnight here and some re-provisioning they will have a faster but gentle cruise down to Briare.
Cecile arrives for the evening. She has a bit of a shocker of a cold, but makes light of it. We go for a meal at “Les Dominicaines”. We chose a “mystere” menu with courses chosen by the chef and accompanying wines by the sommelier. We sit out in the open air and it is a beautifully warm evening. The meal is very good indeed. We discuss a thousand things. Old friends, the way of life, the merits of Mr Hollande, Mme Aubry and Mr Sarkozy. It’s odd, but possibly for understandable reasons we rarely discuss politics with French friends.
We go back to the boat for a coffee, and then part at midnight until next year, probably in England. Tomorrow Cecile is off down to the Cher for a folk dancing festival. We will wait in Montargis for the arrival of Pete and Jan.
